We're the new ones who keep the livin' flowers at home, and we're going through a lot of awkward situations like, "come on in, let's go, let's go, let's go."。
It's not because of how hard it is to grow, but it's often because we don't know what it's like, and it's made by people。
Today, a streamlined version of the final pit avoidance guide, covering seedling selection, changing basins, fertilizing, trimping, four seasons of conservation and some unusual cold knowledge, can be repeated every year with new hands
First, selecting the seedlings to avoid the pits: it's wrong to start。
In other words, it would be preferable not to choose anti-seasonal, hormonal oxytocin seedlings, which are overstretched, which cannot be maintained when they return home, and which may occur at any time. It's a little hard to grow up。
And there's... The leaves glowing and waxing. This type of foliage, which is used to sell pasta, may have clogged the foliage airhole, and leaves, falling seedlings appear shortly after their return home, are highly likely to be hanged at any time if they are used beyond the standard。
In general, the selection of seedlings is based on the following: a thick, thick, thick, green-coloured, compact, small flowered or flowered seedlings are the best。
Second, reloading the pits: scrambling, unstable。
It's better not to change the pot whenever the plant has flowers. It is inevitable that the earth will damage the roots and that the effects on the growth of the flowers and the reduction of their periods will be inevitable。
Nor do you want to cut your heart out and replace it with a big, deep pot and a better space for development. Longevity flowers are small and shallow plants whose dry and wet cycle slows and sour roots are difficult to avoid。
And let's not wash the roots of the earth, man-made destruction of the protective layer of the root system and the failure of the seedlings, after all, because it's a grass, not a woody plant; or a garden where water is grown with a sticky, hard-core sheeting, and where the eggs are hidden, all this will leave behind later conservation。
The standard re-basket operation should take place in the growing season after the flower, in spring and autumn; select a small shallow mouth basin larger than the original basin, using six nutrients and four particles of soil, and keep a small amount of the pristine soil, and trim its roots and plant it。
You know, when long-lived roots are packed with flowers, they trigger their original crisis of “reproduction instincts”, detached wildly from the buds; if the roots of the basin are in space, most of them grow with heart and are hard to bloom。
Thirdly, applying fertilizers to avoid pits: no fatter, many fat ones burning roots。
The main point is that, in winter and summer extreme temperatures, the long-lived flowers will go into hibernation, and they will never be able to fertilize, and once the rest of the fertilizer in the basin gathers, the black rotting roots will not be contained; nor will they be tested for the endurance of the long-lived flowers, or the long-term application of nitrogen fertilizers, so that they will grow into a green basket; they will be less environmentally friendly than water; they will not expect to fertilize the plants for long periods of time, and they will not be able to feed themselves for long。
The correct method of fertilizer should be: 15 days in spring and autumn to produce a thin, general liquid fertilizer that will feed a strong seedling; 10 days in october-november to stop nitrogen fertilizers and change to 10 days in the form of phosphate fattening; 20 days in the form of a balanced fertilization during the winter spring, which will guarantee the nutrients of the bouquet。
Fourth, trim the pit: one wrong cut, no flowers a year。
Longevity flowers are also a new flower, and if they are cut and not fixed, it is difficult for the rest of them to grow on their side branches, and the buds are nowhere to live, and the amount of flowers is scarce for the coming year; but it is not possible to recut the tops in late september and early october, so that they don't cut out the buds that have been formed, so that they can be seen。
The normal cropping, mostly at the end of the spring and the beginning of the summer; at other times it's mostly light cutting, keeping the strain tight. And of course, it's absolutely necessary to cut off the yellow leaves, the weak branches, the inner corrugated branches, enhance ventilation, reduce the nutrient consumption of plants, and avoid damp, morbid, black, rotting roots。
5th and 4th seasons of pit conservation: a simple, mine-free programme throughout the year:
Spring: trims, suns, side branches for nutrients, bottoms for fall and winter pops。
Summer: tan, long rain, or sun, fertilizing, watering。
However, the summer plant has occasionally experienced a slight foliage and discoloration, which is a normal hibernation rather than a water shortage. This is a time of great analysis, and the chance of watering the roots is higher if you don't think freely。
Autumn: don't be light-deficit, too much nitrogen fattening, shearing, strictly controlling water-driven buds; can be applied to phosphorus-based potassium fattening, can be followed by short-lived guillotine。
Winter: low temperatures below 12°c, wet soil in the basin, light shortage. This season can be completely maintained in full daylight。
Sixth, common high frequency pits for beginners。
Long-lived flowers tend to stabilize the environment, and if they move more frequently, they are prone to loss of their tumbles, rigidity; they are too closed to the environment, and they explode, powder, black corruption, etc。
In fact, the core secret to a long-lived flower is eight words: small basins, less water, thin fat, cut. If you don't have to consider whether or not you need to be careful, you can avoid all mined areas and produce a full-sized, year-old, spring-explosive plant
