
Those who grow carrots know the importance of seedlings, but many do not know that their timing is more important than their own. I've seen a lot of people, and radishs rush out of ceymour, and then they set up their seedlings once in a while, and then they die, and they can't make up for it. Today i will tell you about three common fault areas of radish seedlings, as well as the right time and method of radish seedlings。
Zero one, one seed. A lot of people think that the sooner the seedlings come together to compete for nutrients, the better it is. When the radish comes out, the seedlings are small and weak, and the resistance is weak, and when the worms, jumpers, aphids and tigers, are watching, and a storm can kill several. If you had done it sooner, then the bugs would have killed a couple of them, and the rain would have washed them up. The radish is so big that it has a low rate of survival, especially when the roots of the meat start to swell, they can't move and die。

I suffered this loss the year before, when the radish was born, and it was rare, and it ended up in the fall of the nails, with a dozen dead, a loss of seedlings, a loss of one third of the last half of the acre, and a substantial reduction in production. Since then, i've never been so early。
Mistake two, drop-in. Some people save themselves, they set a distance at once and don't care anymore. It's not right either. The radish seedlings grow fast, are put in place at once, and if there is a dead seedling behind them, there is no excess seedling to fill. And yet, the beauty and the weakness of the baby are not fully visible, and it is easy to see it once in a while, leaving it behind。
The correct approach is to divide the seedlings into two or three times, gradually increasing the spacing of the seedlings and eventually setting them up. This leaves a buffer space for the seedlings and allows them to be screened each time they are saplings, which is the best。

There's still a lot of room. Many people leave large seedlings, pull them out and feel that they grow fast and produce more. It's not exactly right. Carrot seedlings are particularly large, and may be seeded by light, watery seedlings, which are long and shallow, rather than smaller, but thin. The others are pre-employed seedlings, which look fast, but they're starting to split, and in the future the radish will grow。
The right thing to do is to "go to the middle" with a very large seedling and a very small seedling being pulled out of the middle, even-sized, thick and green of the leaves. Such seedlings are well developed, have a consistent pattern, have easy management and have high yields。
Three faults, say the right time. The first time a seedling grows in radish two to three real leaves, seven to ten days after the seedling. At this point, the seedlings have gained some resistance, the pests have endangered a wave, and it is almost clear which ones will survive. When the seedlings are too dense, too weak to be bitten by bugs, the seedlings remain between 3 and 5 centimetres. This time, the seedlings should not be too thin, leaving room for death to follow。
The second time the saplings were in the four to five leaves, 15 to 20 days after the seeding. By that time, the seedlings had become larger, the seedlings had become more visible, and the chances of death were lower. This time, the seedling is a seedling, stretching its distance to the standard range, large white radish about 30 centimetres, small and medium radish between 20 and 25 centimetres. The seedlings are designed to leave saplings of leaves, thick green colours, short-strengthed saplings, yellow-coloured leaves, long leaves, pests and diseases。

Why seed in four to five leaves? Because the root of the radish is just starting to grow, and it's not thick enough, and the seedlings don't hurt the roots. If after six leaves, the root of the flesh is already thick, the seed will break, it will rot in the soil, and it will affect the next seed. Moreover, the saplings are squeezing, the leaves are shielded from each other, and the protégés are unable to keep up, even if they are later opened。
Sakaki's specific operations are also being addressed. It would be better if the sapling took place in the middle of the morning, when it was a little atrophy and it was not easy for the seedlings to touch the ones left behind. When the seedlings squeeze the base of the seedlings with their fingers, gently lift it up, and do not shake around the right or the right, lest they hurt the root of the seed. If the seedlings are so deep, it can be released with a small shovel。
Upon completion of the seedlings, water is poured once, the disturbed soil is sunk and the roots are restored. A small amount of urea can be pumped with water, 5 to 8 pounds per acre. If there is a shortage of seedlings, it is possible to replant the sapling strips and to dig a pit with a small shovel, so that the seedlings can be put in, covered in soil, water, and live. But it's too early, four to five leaves. It's too big。
And when the seedlings grow grass and pine earth, it is both. Carrot seedlings grow fast, weeds grow late, weeds are warmer than radish, and nutrients are taken to light. The pine soil breaks the slabs of the soil and promotes the growth of the roots, but not the roots of the radish。

There is also a detail that if, at the time of the seedling, the existing root of the seedling has begun to grow thicker and surface, the seedling will have to be left on a priority basis, indicating that it has begun to expand and grow. Saplings with thin roots, which grow upwards, may be seedlings, which can be removed。
In addition, the saplings should be balanced and should not be isolated. Equivalent seedlings ensure that each radish has sufficient space to grow and that the light and nutrients are even and yield high. If the seedlings are particularly dense, a few more can be uprooted, and if the seedlings are scarce, a few fewer will be pulled, so as to keep the whole as even as possible。
Remember this point of time: radishs 2 to 3 for the first seed of the leaf, 4 to 5 for the leaf. Don't be too early or too late, but it's time to get out of the three wrongs, and the radish is so strong that it doesn't stop. I suffered the loss of early seedlings the previous year, and in this way the carrots were smolder every year, and by the fall they were all big and good. Don't grow radish this year。
# carrot growing #




