In rural areas, the experience of older generations has never been false. There are no complex theories, no expensive fertilizers, some words to remember, and decades or even hundreds of years of seeding wisdom. I planted garlic on the pit for years, and it was small as a walnut, half a walnut, half a rotting petal, and in less than half a month, it died. Until three years ago, an old man in the village who had grown garlic for the rest of his life taught me six sentences of garlic. I've been doing it for three years, a year better, and now i've grown a lot of garlic, bigger than my fist, with little sight of stabbing, and a total elimination of rotten petals. Today, these six sentences were passed on and three years of practical experience were shared with all the garlic people。
One, white endings, autumn splits -- wrong timing, no effort
The first step of garlic is not the selection of seeds, not the whole land, but the timing of planting. Many people have failed with garlic, and the root cause is that it's not done. Old people say "white end, fall end," meaning a week before and a week before the fall break, is a golden time to grow garlic。
At this point, the surface temperature is about 18-20°c, which is the right place for garlic petals to take root, neither because of the high temperatures that cause garlic to grow mad nor because of the low temperatures that keep the garlic petals dormant. I planted garlic some years ago, either in a hurry, when the whites arrived, and the temperature was high after the seeding, and the garlic was thin and tall, and died as soon as the winter went cold, and when the spring began, the weak did not grow garlic; or it was delayed, after the autumn seasons, the earth cooled, the garlic did not germinate in the earth for half a month, even if it barely came out, the roots were not deep enough to absorb the nutrients。
For three years, i have been sorely stuck, sowing between five days after the white show and three days before the fall, and the temperature has stabilized at around 19°c. After 7 to 10 days of planting, garlic can grow up to 4 to 5 large leaves before winter. The roots are deep and strong. They are resistant to freezing and store nutrients. They enter a fast and long life after spring. They provide the most solid basis for garlic expansion。
Two, pick the petals, and finish it
Many people grow garlic and buy a whole piece of garlic from the market, and they just do it, big or small. This is the most cost-effective and wrong approach. Old people say, "check the petals, get to the bottom," and the core is that garlic has to be carefully chosen to grow。
The selection of garlic is based on three criteria: the first is the selection of large or small, each has a weight of more than 5 grams, the individual has a low weight, has a small weight, has a weak seed, and does not grow garlic at a later stage; the second is the selection of a strong or weak skin, which is smooth, without damage, without worm eyes, without mold, and full of budding eyes, which feel hard and fall down; and the third is the complete extraction of the petals, which are to be separated from the chassis, which cannot be broken, which cannot be broken, which cannot be broken, which cannot be worn, which cannot be planted on the tip of the ground, which cannot be planted, or the seedlings may be slow, which may grow。
I chose any species, small or small, good or bad, mixed, tall or short, strong or weak, weak or weak, twice the size of the garlic, and little or nothing. For three years, i've set aside seeds, and when i harvest, i've sown garlic and garlic, and i've screened them twice before they were sowed, leaving only those that meet the standards. After planting, the seedlings are particularly well organized, are consistent, are free of weak, ill, are managed at a later stage, and the nutrients are concentrated on the seedlings, and the garlic is naturally large。
Between the digital house, the guy of the guy - breaking enjoy and enough
Garlic is a fertilizing crop, which does not have enough bottom fat to catch up later. But many people are vulnerable to one mistake: to contact the manure directly with the garlic petals, leading to the burning of a rotten petal. Old people say “fat, lids”, which is enough, but must be separated from the garlic, without direct contact。
The practice is simple: tilling the ground 20 cm before planting, tearing up the earth's soil, levelling it down and ensuring that the soil is ventilated. Each acre is then applied 2,000 kg of decomposition farm fat (e. G. Chicken dung and goat dung) + 50 kg of slurping, evenly spread over the ground, tilling again, so that the fertilizer and soil are evenly mixed. After fertilization, a layer of 3 centimetres of pure soil is planted and the garlic petals are planted. This ensures that the bottom is full of fat, avoids direct exposure to the garlic petals, and allows the roots to grow freely, deeper and more steadily in the loosed earth。
I used to fertilise a few years ago, either too little bottom fertilizer was applied, and later garlic was yellow and weak; otherwise, the fertilizer was left out of soil to plant garlic, resulting in the burning of the garlic petals, which were particularly porcelain, with a rate of less than 70 per cent. Over the past three years, i've been applying this method strictly, the soil has been lax and fertile, the roots have grown so well, there have been no cases of burning a rotten petal, the yield rate has been over 98 per cent, and garlic has been green, especially strong。
Iv. Deep-drived earth with narrow range - anti-sphyllation and expansion
Many people grow garlic, either too shallow, with garlic on the outside, prone to freezing and water scarcity; either too deep, slow and weak; either too dense, with plants that grab each other's nutrients, with little garlic; or too small, with waste of land and no yield. The elders said that “drive deep into the earth, with narrow distances”, and precisely addressed these problems。
"deeply planted an inch of earth" means seeding at depths of 3-4 cm, about an inch. This depth avoids the freezing of garlic and the scarcity of water, inhibits premature reproductive growth of garlic seedlings and reduces the probability of pumping. The seeding is too shallow, the temperature rises fast after spring, the garlic is easily pumped early, the nutrients are provided with garlic, the garlic is small; the seeding is too deep, the seed is slow, the garlic is weak, and the later is long。
"shrink range" means 20-25 cm range and 8-10 cm range. Wide distances guarantee ventilation, reduce pests and insects, and facilitate later management and garlic; narrow distances allow for rational use of land, ensure density per acre and increase yields. Approximately 40,000 hectares per acre are the most suitable, too densely crowded and too scarce to waste space。
I grew shallow and dense in previous years, with particularly high rates of extraction, with almost half of the garlic saping, and almost half of the garlic shrunk; and later, deep and small, although not very high, production was too low to pay. Over the past three years, i have strictly controlled depth and density, down to less than 5 per cent, with little sight of ineffectual pumping, good ventilation, few pests and diseases, enough space for garlic to expand, each growing round, heavy。
♪ before the winter ♪
Garlic is drought-resistant, but not without water. The key is timing and quantity. Many people either do not water, the soil is dry and the garlic is growing poorly, or the water is overflowing, the soil accumulates, and rotting petals. The elders say, “irrigate before winter and spring,” and make clear the timing and measurement of the water。
Pre-winter water: when the garlic seed is sprouts, and before the onset of winter, when the soil is dry, the water is poured out once, but it cannot be accumulated. This can keep the soil warm and humid, protect the roots from freezing, and allow garlic seedlings to store enough moisture to survive the winter. After winter, there will be no more water, and the soil will be too wet to freeze root。
Watering in the spring: when the soil is unfrozen, the garlic seed begins to return to green, at a time when the water is re-blue and soaked as to promote the restoration of roots and the emergence of new leaves. The soil is then kept dry and wet before the garlic can be pumped, so that the drought can be filled with little water, which cannot be filled with heavy water. When the garlic is pumped, it enters a period of rapid expansion, requiring large quantities of water to ensure sufficient moisture, but not to accumulate water and avoid rotting petals. 7-10 days before the harvest, water must be stopped, the soil dried, the garlic surface was tight, the petals were not easy to rot, and storage was durable。
I have been watering in the past few years, without water before winter, and the garlic is sorely frozen; the spring water is pouring out of the water, and a rotten petal; and the water is poured before the harvest, and the garlic is wet and it dies in days. I've been watering the soil at this pace for three years, and the soil is dry and wet, the roots are dry, the garlic is not yellow, the garlic is full of water, it's full of water, and it doesn't take too long to dry up, so it can be stored directly。
Sniff the leaves, cut the water before it's collected - the blades, the garlic
When a lot of people smoke garlic, they just rip it off with the leaves. It doesn't matter if you think garlic is useless or leaves, or if you're watered before you harvest, you feel watered and you grow garlic. These two practices directly destroyed a year of harvest. The old man said, “don't tear the leaves, cut the water before taking it”, which is the last point, and many people did wrong。
And don't tear the leaves: when the garlic grows, when it is smoked, it is only garlic, not the green leaves beneath it. Each green leaf is a “nutrient factory” of garlic, which produces nutrients through photosynthesis and provides for increased garlic. Tore leaves is to destroy the source of nutrition, and garlic is not nourished, and it is natural that it is small and not full. Even if the garlic is cut in the sheaths, it cannot tear the leaves, rather than draw less, and keep the green leaves。
Water cut before harvest: 5-7 days before harvest, water must be stopped. The soil is too wet, the garlic skin is prone to blackening and cracking, and it is also prone to dispersing petals, price-pressed by buyers and decay when stored. When the water breaks, the soil is dry, the garlic skin is tight, the garlic is full, the colour is good, the sales are good, the storage is durable。
I had torn leaves in a few years ago. The leaves were torn thinly, the garlic was small and thin, and there was a lot of empty space; water before the harvest, the garlic was wet, half of the rotting petals, could not be sold. I've spent three years sipping carefully, not tearing a piece of green leaf, and once after eating garlic, i have applied potassium fattening (10 kg of potassium sulphate per acre) to boost garlic expansion; and before harvest i have lost water on time, the garlic is full, the skin is clean, there are no rotten petals, no wafers, no problems with storage for six months。
3 years of practical learning: old experience plus new details, big garlic, no twitch, no petals
In these three years, i have not simply taken the same approach, but have added a few key details to the current planting environment, which has been more effective。
First, pick the right varieties. If you want to smoke, give preference to spring garlic varieties, such as water early in the morning, garlic in pengzhou, which is extremely low; and to minimize the use of winter garlic, such as gold-skinned garlic, garlic in the mountains, which is easy to smoke。
Second, it's the turn. Garlic can't be connected, it's easily corroded, it's heavy, it's rotten. Best with corn, rice rotations, two to three years apart and then garlic。
Third, pest control. Focus on the prevention of garlic maggots and leaves. Pre-planting is mixed with amphibian and is resistant to garlic mackerel, and is produced with a long-term dose of dyson manganese zinc every 10 days to prevent foliage and to avoid yellowing and influence nutrients。
Fourth, it's in time. Seven to 10 days before the harvest, when the next leaf is yellow, the garlic seed is turned upside down, the nutrients are cut, and the whole nutrient is flowing back to the garlic, which is more tight and full。
In three years, from pedestal to mastery of the old, to the optimization of the new details, our garlic has achieved a 30 per cent increase in the acreage production, better sales, higher prices and savings in storage. Many people feel that high-tech and high-value fertilizers are being planted, but the experience of older generations, proven over decades, is simple, practical, low-cost, and can be seen if you do it carefully。
Summary
It is not by luck, but by weather, air and talk. The six sentences passed down by the elders, with no luxurious rhetoric, speak out about the core points of planting time, selection, fertilization, planting, watering and later management。
Many people now grow, blindly pursuing new pesticides and fertilizers, ignoring the most fundamental experiences and patterns. The essence of agriculture is respect for nature, its submission to nature, the wisdom of the elders, the fear of the land and the fear of crops. These three years of practice have taught me that real high productivity is not based on speculation, but on solid foundation, management of science and the transmission and use of traditional experience。
Each harvest cannot be separated from patience and hearts. This is so in the field, and so in the business。
