Hello, i'm the gecko. I'm talking about something practical today。
Many of our friends get caught in a "difficult" when they fix the air conditioners: trying to put in a central air conditioner that can't afford it; putting in a traditional hanger/cracker, and fearing nakedness to undermine the style of the renovation. There's actually an "intermediate" option -- windpipe air conditioning, and a lot of fans have been asking me recently, "shall i do it?" and today, from definition, advantage, hole-scrambling to the right crowd, you know what your home should do。
First, let's get this straight: what is the windpipe? It's not a central air conditioner, it's not an ordinary hanger
Before describing the advantages and disadvantages, it is necessary to define the core definition of windpipe air conditioning (commonly known as “one to one” - a “simple version” of central air conditioning, but not traditional central air conditioning。
In short, it is the structure of an “outdoor machine for an indoor machine”: the outdoors are similar to those of an ordinary hanger, which are hidden in a hanger, with a cold and hot wind on the windpipe to the room. Essentially, it is a "hidden hanger" / cupboard, which preserves both the advantages of a central air conditioner, a "hidden beauty" and the flexibility of a general air conditioner, a "single independent control" , to squeeze the advantages of both。
A lot of people are gonna mix it up with "one ton of central air conditioners." here's a point: one tow is a “one-on-one” “one-on-one” “one outdoor machine”, which directly determines its application, which will be detailed later。
Two, what's the windpipe
Windpipe fire, at the heart of which is the need for modern people to be “painted and practical”, especially the five advantages, which are much more thoughtful than traditional air conditioning。
Placing ceilings: hidden in the ceiling and no air-conditioning creeps at home
It's the best thing about windpipes -- it's completely hidden in a hanger, with only a flat wind vent, a wind vent, no bump on a hanger wall, no cupboard on the ground。
I've chosen for a friend, and she's got a long strip of a white glare in her living room and almost one with a plaster ceiling, and guests come to the house and ask, "do you have any air conditioning?" also, wind vent styles, such as wood ceilings with cochromosomal vents, light luxuries with metal senses, are fully able to follow renovation styles to achieve "no air conditioning" effect。
Practical techniques: it is much easier to choose a wind vent than a style, to choose a detachable grid - when cleaning up dust in the later stages, to remove it from it。
High-level air conditioners
The traditional hanger is a "point-to-point" like a bedroom hanger hanging on a wall, and the wind blows out of the bed, either cold head or cold side by side. However, the windpipe is windy and the vents are flexible according to the layout of the room, such as the living room in the ceiling above the couch, the bedroom in the ceiling on the side of the closet, and the area covered by the vent is wide and there are no dead corners。
And most of the wind pipes support the "down and back" or "side and back" methods: in the living room, the cold wind is blown down from the ceiling, the hot air is sucked from the wind vent near the ground, the air flow is smooth and room temperature fluctuations are contained at ±0. 5°c; in the bedroom, the wind is blown back to the wall with the wind, which does not blow the bed, sleeps without dryness or headache。
Practical techniques: bedroom vents should be kept at a distance of more than 1. 5 metres from the head of the bed in order to avoid the wind blowing indirectly to the body。
Control flexibility: which one to open does not need to “open a house for one”
The windpipe's “one to one” structure determines its independent control -- for example, it has only one person in the living room during the day, opening a windpipe in the living room; it has only one person in the main room at night, opening the main bedroom, not “open it up” like a ton of central air conditioners, saving electricity。
My neighbor's house is a two-bedroom, with two typhoons (3 in the living room + 1. 5 in the main bedroom), a living room in the summer, a main bedroom in the evening, and nearly 100 bucks less than one tow per month for the same household, especially for families with a small resident population。
4. Budget-friendly: less than 30-50 per cent of total central air conditioning, full value for money
If you want to experience "hidden air conditioners", but the budget is not enough for a towed central air conditioner, the windpipe is the choice of value for money。
Take an example of a two-bedroom 100m2 room: a total budget of approximately 15 to 20,000 for two typhoons (3 in the living room + 1. 5 in the main bedroom), plus installation fees; and a budget of at least 30,000 to 40,000, half the same, for three towed central air conditioners (3 outside the room with living room + two bedrooms). Also, windpipes do not have complex cold-pipe designs, and the cost of installing support materials (e. G. Windpipes, heat-conservation cotton) is 10-20 per cent lower than a drag, and is friendly to friends with limited budgets。
5. A new wind: no more air, no more air
A lot of people now remodel new wind systems, but if the new wind vents are installed alone, there are a few more bumps on the ceiling. And the windpipe power and the new wind system are connected directly -- fresh air from fresh wind treatment, which connects to the windpipe system through the pipe, brings it into the room with the cold wind, does not need a new wind vent, saves the ceiling space, and allows fresh air to mix with the cold wind, which is more comfortable。
Practical techniques: if a new wind is to take place, it is necessary to communicate with air conditioners, new wind masters in advance, to determine the size of the interface of the wind pipe, to avoid failure at a later stage, and to perform sealing to prevent leakage。
Three, don't get confused! Five holes in the windpipe and a decade of regret
The windpipe is not a perfect air conditioner, and its shortcomings are obvious, especially with the five pits, which, if not avoided, can be filled with regret enough to be dismantled。
1. Installation time card death: missed renovation node, unable to pay back
The windpipe's most “correctional” is the time of installation -- it has to be installed in the interior after the hydro-electric retrofitting, before the scapula is built, and it has to be paved and drained. If you don't think about it until half of the time, or if you want to build an old house, you have to break the ceiling, which is expensive (+ at least $5,000 more), and destroys existing renovations。
I had a fan who did not want to put a windpipe until the painting phase, and then broke the ceiling of the living room, and the wall was razed and the return work was expensive。
Pipe avoidance techniques: before renovation, it is important that the “windpipe” be written into the renovation plan, and that the three parties be connected with the designer, the plumber and the air conditioner installer, to determine the time and course of installation, and not wait until work is started。
Altitude of the ceiling has a threshold: the layer is not high enough and is filled to look like “press the ceiling”
The insider of the windpipe + the windpipe requires a ceiling height of at least 25-30 cm, which is about 20 cm, even if it is super thin. If the original layer of the house is below 2. 7 m, it'll be depressed if it's finished with the hoist -- for example, the layer is 2. 6 m, the ceiling is 25 cm, and the remaining height is 2. 35 m, and walking in the house would feel "crazy on top."。
Pipe avoidance techniques: if the layer is 2. 7 m high, the super thin interior machine (within 20 cm thick) is selected, the ceiling is used only in part (e. G., the living room is hung around, the middle is kept high, forming a “two eyelids” ceiling) and the view is higher; if the layer is below 2. 6 m, the wind pipe is preferred。
3. Outer space: one more room, one more machine
Because it's one to one, there's a few indoors, so there's a few outdoors. For example, if one room in room 3 wants each room to be loaded, it's four outdoors, and if there's only a limited spare space (e. G., only two) outside the sector, it's impossible to do so at all, it has to be abandoned。
There was a previous owner who bought a room in room 3, which was given only two outer slots, and who was supposed to install a three-windpipe, and then only the living room, the bedroom, the hanger, but not the same。
Pipe avoidance techniques: if a house is purchased, the number of outside spaces should be checked, or the property should be checked for size and quantity before renovation, it will require several wind pipes, if not sufficient, to find a way ahead (e. G., to consult with neighbours, but with regard to compliance)。
4. Maintenance is expensive: it's expensive and expensive to break up the roof and repair the machine
Indoor machines are hidden in the crane, and post-maintenance maintenance is a major problem: for example, cleaning filters, which have to be carried out through the overhaul door, and if there is no overhaul, the ceiling must be removed; if the wind engine is broken and the windpipe leaks, not only does it have to be removed, but maintenance costs are 20-40 per cent higher than the hanger (e. G. 200 for the hanger and 400 for the windpipe)。
Even worse, if the wind pipes are not properly sealed when installed, the leak is difficult to detect, which leads to slower cooling/heating and increased energy consumption of 10-15 per cent, when the warranty period is passed and the ceiling has to be repaired at a cost。
Pipe avoidance techniques: the installation must be done in such a way as to allow the master to leave the door open, where it is convenient (e. G. Above the bedroom closet, near the living room air conditioner) at a minimum of 30 cm x 30 cm; the windpipe is completed and the master is given a leak test (with pressure gauge) to ensure that the sealing is safe。
Do not touch the fixed-frequency type: it's still loud and it buys like a "battered head"
The early windpipes are mostly of a fixed-frequency type, where compressors are either full of loads or shut-down, with high temperature fluctuations and loud noises, and energy consumption for long periods of time (e. G. 24-hour start-up) is 15-20 per cent higher than that of a variable-frequency type. Now, while the mainstream is variable frequency, there are some low-cost machines that are fixed frequency, many of which are cheap to buy and regret for six months。
Pipe avoidance techniques: when choosing a wind pipe, look at the `variant frequency' label, and in parameters look at the `apf value' (energy efficiency ratio), the higher the apf value, the higher the power savings (e. G., apf 4. 0 or more, much less than 3. 5) and do not buy the specified frequency cheaply。
Four, 30 seconds to pair: should your home choose the windpipe? That's all i need
It's not a complicated calculation
The windpipe is suitable for you if it:
Direct avoidance is recommended if:
Finally: the ultimate small sticker selection frequency of the windpipe is not selected, and the super thin is chosen rather than normal - the transient electrostatic sound, the super thin machine-type high-to-low demand; the installation of an experienced team, rather than the “guerrilla” - the windpipe installation, sealing, and retrofitting are required to be professional and poorly fitted with pits at the end; the early and designer-to-clip-to-clip options, such as the local ceiling, the hidden examination door, are beautiful and practical。
In short, the windpipe is a “painted and practical balance option”, but not a panacea. The definition, advantages and pitfalls will be clearly defined and planned in advance, so that it will be able to raise the profile of the family and bring comfortable experiences, or it will be easy to make mistakes
