If you ask a cantonese, where are you going to see the sea in the summer? There's a name you'll hear: hue-dong。
This is the bay of bays, the bay of the moon, the bay of the left, which is like a mirror, and the bay of the right, which is full of waves. Sounds like god left it on the south sea。
But if you ask a local fisherman again, he'll be silent for a long time, and he'll cry, "the sea is still the sea, but the taste has changed."
I. Fish songs flooded by the net red filter。
Huedong county, located along the south-east coast of guangdong province, has 218 kilometres of coastline. The people here, from their ancestors, are “family scavengers” — the ships, the sea。
In the past, fishermen were to worship their mothers and fathers before they went out to sea and pray that the wind would be smooth, and when they returned to the sea, the men closed their nets and the women sang their song on the shore. The song is loud and long, and the salty smell of sea wind is the most moving voice in this land。
In 2014, hee-dong fish was included in the national non-materialsCultureLegacy. But ironically, it's hard for you to hear it now. Instead, there was deafening electronic music in bars, and " apples " , which were circulated on the beach。
The city of pinghai, built 18 years ago in minghong's 18-year-old anti-guk city, used to have four whole walls. Today, the ancient city is still there, but it sells small commodities and runs a “net red milk tea shop”. Six hundred years of history, put in a plastic cup, drank out, left nothing。
From “maldives” to “low dumplings”。
The beauty of hee-dong was once “never known”. In the early 2000s, the first friends of donkeys discovered the soil: the sea was clear, the sand was white as snow, the fishermen were humble and the seafood was cheap enough to eat。
Then the capital comes。
Yuen bay has been packaged as “maldives in china” and the moon bay has been fired as “net-red carded”. Hotels, apartments and villas appeared as springs of rain, squeezing the coastline。
In the season, you see not the sea, but the man. And on the sand is a dense parasol, like a boiled dumpling. There is sunscreen, mineral water bottles and occasionally a slipper. You wanted to take a picture of the circle of friends, and the background was full of strangers' heads。
What's worse is "the slaughterer." a leather shrimp sells $188 and a plate of cuisine $58. The tourists posted, angryly, "the seafood in huedong is too expensive!" the locals laughed, "we can't eat seafood ourselves."
Tastes destroyed by “commercialization”。
Hee-dong's cuisine was once a perfect expression of the “sea-eating sea”。
Ponyfish balls, hand-made with fresh ponyfish, q pops, bites down and hears the sound of a “sing”. Iron gushing, fat, sweet, local people like to eat directly, with a little mustard sauce, which is called a “frown eyebrow”. There are also flatcakes, skins that are thin as wings, sprouts of beans, filaments, shrimp, and a sip of the sea。
But now, many tourists complain, "the sea is fresh."
Why? As a result of overfishing, fish are becoming smaller and smaller off the coast. In many restaurants, seafood is actually farmed, even frozen. Real wild seafood is expensive and unaffordable for ordinary tourists。
Locals miss being a child: a net full of fish and shrimp; when the tide's down, the beach is full of crabs and conch. Now, there's only garbage and plastic bottles behind the tide。
The “root” that is disappearing。
Hee-dong's most valuable is not the red spots, but the fishing village culture。
In the past, each fishing village had its own “magic temple”. Every year, on the birth day, the whole village walks around with their mother's statues, and the firecrackers are ringing. The fishermen believed that mother would protect them from the sea and the shrimps。
Now, mom's temple is still there, but the tour has become "TourismShow. Visitors spend $50 to put on costumes and follow the team to make a video sound. Who's mom? Nobody cares。
The same goes for the hymns. The old fisherman sings, but the young feel “earth”. They prefer to go to ktv to sing " out of the sea " instead of " out of the sea " on a fishing boat. To dieLegacyOld lee said, "in ten years, maybe no one can sing."
The future of hee-dong: can the sea be recovered
Hee-dong's problems are not unique to him. Sanya, xiamen drum, north sea dynasty island almost all tourist cities along the coast of china have gone along the same path: they were excavated, then held hostage by capital, and then destroyed by overexploitation。
But hee-dong has a chance。
In recent years, the local government has begun to take care of itEnvironmentThe closure of a number of abusive hotels has strengthened the regulation of seafood markets. Some fishers have also transformed themselves into “ecotourism”, bringing tourists out to fish, explaining village culture rather than simply selling seafood。
More importantly, a growing number of young people are beginning to realize that fish songs, mothers, fishing villages are not “earth”, but “root”. Some began to learn to sing fish songs, others used short videos to record the lives of fishing villages, others went back to their villages and made old houses “cultural houses” with fish villages。
The sea of hee-dong, can you return to the clean, pure, living sea? I don't know。
But i know that one day, if you go to hee-dong again, you can hear fish songs floating through the sea, you can eat real wild seafood and you can see the true smile on the fisherman's face — that's what hee-dong looks like。
Don't let the sea live in a filter. # mcn micro headline partnership #
