I've been doing a 3d print-up for years, and the most frequently asked is, "do you have a cheap 3d printer recommended?" i used to be very direct -- the a1 mini, the minimum price for the year was $7xx. But i have recently brushed a few waves of activity and price curves and found that its “dead enemy” is cheaper. The kind of white that wants to get in the car first, and not burn thousands at once, is really worth looking at。
It's simple: when there's an electrician, the pdd put the 3d portal in the $749. Plus the v3 coupons that i used on my side, the final payment was $689. The price was confirmed again with my own account number. It did work. More importantly, this is itself a product orientation for newcomers, different from the kind of "buy back for half a day" -- otherwise the same cheap will turn into a mess。
First of all, who it is. Ideas three-dimensional, called creality hi, is the entry level 3d printer that was launched in february 2025. The official call was “the zero threshold, 10 minutes to learn 3d printers”. You'll see that it was first sold in the form of a combo suit, a pre-sold multi-colour printing system, with an initial offer of up to $2599, which, in plain words, is for someone who wants to "take one step in order." it then broke down the single version at about $1,200。
The problem, however, is that the price offensive for a1 mini has been too strong, and the idea has fallen along three dimensions. The normal price of the single version fell quickly to about $799. In recent times, such activity vouchers have been made to $689, which is the “lowest known electricity provider ever”. You want to ask me why i think it's worth writing? Because a lot of 3d printers are cheap, and they end up being "you buy them before you find trouble" or "the benefits are just for the sake of the flow," but this time they're real entry prices and they give you certainty about the purchase。
Let's go over its core configuration and see how it can push the threshold so low. Creality hi plays high-speed printing, automatically smoothing and multi-colouring. It can print up to a maximum speed of 500 mm/s and accelerate up to 12,000 mm/s2. The structural use of aluminum alloyed skeletons, combined with cartesian structural body, has the advantage that stability and maintenance costs are relatively friendly, at least less “lucky” for new players. The multi-coloured piece supports a maximum of 16-colour printing, but requires four cfs modules combined -- - look, this isn't like "you're a straight 16", depending on whether you're ready to do multi-colour ecology。
Interfaces and interactions are also new. A 3. 2-inch touch screen has been marked on the right to support network printing; high-cleaning cameras are also available for remote monitoring and time-delayed photography. One of the more intuitive points is that it can automatically calibrate the printing platform and effectively resolve the printing overturns on the first floor caused by the tilt of the platform. It's human to say that the newbies are the easiest to die on the first floor, and the automatic calibration will significantly reduce the probability of your first complete defeat。
I went to the idle fish as i used to. The result is realistic: the average second-hand price is about $60000 in this area, and the price of the brand-new electricity is almost equal. As i have seen at the lower end, the minimum deal can be $589-599, but it is largely “sutilized” and hardly available in the field. If you're really in the field, you're going to get a second-hand low price, and the final cost may be deformed; let alone, if you have no experience with machine state, wire-deficient materials, and scrap marks, it may not be cheap。
So my own conclusion is pragmatic: if you're trying to print 3d, the goal is to get less curved and print out the results, then get as much new as possible in the electrician. The reason is realistic: the mail, the after-sales and the quality assurance at least go to the bottom. You're tired of playing or you don't know how to do that, and you're gonna lose dozens of dollars. Putting “test-and-fall costs” within a reasonable range is more important than if you were to pursue “minimum prices” from the outset。
Finally, while the price is good, it suggests that you should not just look at “can you buy 689”. The newbies are most afraid that they won't dress, change or know how to judge whether there are problems at the front level. If you're ready to learn carefully, the automatic calibration + calibration of this design will be valuable; if you hold on to "go back and press whatever you want," you won't save it。
Now this is the 689 point, and it's really the position of “the man who wants to get in the car”. At least to the extent i can find it, it's a little tougher than the one i recommended. If you're hesitant, you might want to take advantage of this event and run before you spend your time watching。
