# how the walnut ends #
"the walnut that just bought the yunnan, brushing the trail for two days!" in the picture of the walnuts that the fans sunned, the deep hives turned into pits like sandpapers -- it's not the walnuts that are too thin, it's the wrong way to bottom. Unlike normal walnuts, it's cortexed with iron and a long line of textures, and it's always hidden in the "unpurified fruit" style of a plate of ordinary walnuts, with 89 of them going to break. According to the walnut conservation guide, the bottom core of walnuts is “cleaning first, swirling first” and “no more than wild”. Today's exclusive method of walnut-snatching, so don't let your "hard-shell baby" change into "discretionary."。
First of all, why can't yunnan walnuts get to the bottom? Three features to remember
First, it has a cortex density of 1. 1 g/cm3, which is harder than normal walnuts, 30%, like a piece of a “hard rock”, which sharpens the edge of the road and uses a “deep print” to draw “a shallow pit”; and second, it has a particularly complex pattern, with the common “antex” “honeytails” filled with tiny gutters, two times more than normal walnuts, and leaves fruit and meat than normal walnuts, which are not cleaned up later in time, and, lastly, the “anti-alkali” of the walnuts is more stubborn, ordinary walnut brushes, and three nucles fall, and the walnuts have to be brushed for a week。
For the first time, my colleague made the mistake of "scrambling with a ball of steel" -- thinking that the walnuts were hard, scrambling with a ball of steel, and then scraping the walnut's face out of the line, which was a "gruem." then it became clear to the literature that the skin of the walnuts, though hard, was “crystal” and that the hard wire of the steel ball would cut the skin and form a “permanent scratch” and that it would never shine at any later stage。
Step one: quickie meat -- don't stick it with toothpicks, warm water + round head hook is king province
The bottom of the walnut is the purified meat, which is the most critical step. Get the new walnuts in hand, and get a bowl of 30°c hot water, and let the walnuts bubble for 10 minutes. And when you're done with a round-head needle, you pick it down a little bit like a "deep tunnel" along the line, and you have to pick it up patiently, not in trouble, clean it at a time, and later on you'll have to hide dirt and turn it into "black mud."。
It is necessary to spit on the "violent puritanist" party: someone with a toothpick and a needle digs it up, and someone with a toothbrush and a hard brush, instead of brushing the fruit, embedding the brush into the texture. When i'm cleaning my pecan, i'm going to go with a soft brush, pick out a big piece of fruit, swirl the trail with a soft brush, brush out the tiny piece of fruit, split it between two and three days at a time。
After cleaning up the meat, you have to use kitchen paper to dry the water on the surface of the walnut, put it in the cold of the ventilation for 24 hours, and don't put the sun on the side of the heat -- walnuts are hard, but they're too hot to break when they suck, and last year, a fan cleaned up the walnut without drying it, and the bottom of the walnuts cracks, and it's only expensive to fix it, and it hurts。
Step two: go to the anti-basin -- don't brush with a hard pig'sbrush, nanobrush with a slow brush
Iron walnuts are more recalcitrant than normal walnuts, and many brush them with a hard pig's abdomen, leaving the pecan unpaved. The correct method is to use "soft nanobrush" twice a day, 20 minutes a day, following the course of the tattoo, and then brushing horizontally and vertically, to make sure that each gutter is brushed -- the brush of the nanobrush is thin and soft, can penetrate deep into the line, and does not scratch the hard skin of the walnut, like, "cleaning the walnut deep."。
It took me a whole week to go against walnuts: three times a day for the first three days, 20 minutes a day, and the second four days, two times a day, 15 minutes a day, basically disappears, and the walnuts show the original dark brown. There is a small technique here: if you think you can't do it when you're going to the anti-basin, you can use a little fresh water (not too much! Just brush the pointy and wet), wet brush can make it easier for the anti-basin to fall off, but when you're done, you have to dry the pecan surface with a dry cloth to avoid residual moisture。
Don't believe the rumours of oil going against base! A friend put olive oil on a walnut before trying to speed up the anti-basin, and then the anti-basin went off, all of the oil leaked into the line, turned into a sticky “oil mud”, and then covered with ash, and finally had to grind it with sandpaper, grinding the line down a circle -- the pecan's small hole, the oil would just block the trail and make it harder to clean up。
Step 3: initial polishing -- do not combine with leather gloves, pure cotton gloves "slight disk + brush"
After the anti-basin, the walnut surface is rougher and requires a "first polish" but not a leather glove (too smooth, not enough friction), and it's best to choose a cotton glove. Put on a pure cotton glove plate for 15 minutes every day, so that every side of the walnut is too tight, so that the fibers of the gloves rub the pecan surface and flatten the small scratches; do not lazily when the plate is finished, brush it with a soft pig's swirl (but not with a boar's swirl) for 5 minutes, focus on the depths of the road, and make the light smoother, avoiding the "light of the surface and the dark of the road"。
When i first polished the walnuts, i held on to two weeks: the week before, "the gloves disk 15 minutes + piggy brush 5 minutes," the walnut surface began to become smooth; the week after that, the gloves were reduced to 10 minutes a day, 10 minutes a day, and 10 minutes a day, so the line could be polished. 2 a week later, the surface of a walnut felt like a “boiled stone”, which was smooth and preserved a sense of tweed, which was much brighter than that of a colleague with a leather glove plate。
Step 4: solid cortex -- don't worry about the nudity plate, "wows + still" for one month
A lot of people were naked when they first polished their hands, and the leather of the walnuts was not stable, and the sweat and stains on their hands became "black marks." the correct approach is "stable cortex": after the initial polishing, wearing a pure cotton glove plate for 10 minutes a day, and then putting the walnuts in an air-breathed cotton bag, so that the walnuts' cortex is slowly adapted to the environment, a process that takes at least one month -- don't feel long, the walnuts' cortex is hard, they have longer stabilization periods than normal walnuts, they have better cortex later to play without blackening and cracking。
When i stabilize the cortex, i take the walnuts out once a week to see if there is anti-alkali or stain on the surface, and if there is a soft brush, they are brushed lightly; a month later, the walnut's surface forms a “protective membrane”, which is warmer than rough, and it's difficult to get naked on the plate。
Finally, i'd like to ask you: have you ever stepped on the bottom of a walnut? Did the curry break the line, or did the anti-basket cut the skin? Welcome to the comment area to share the sun map so that you can avoid the pits – although yunnan walnuts are hard to bottom out, the sauce from the plate is particularly beautiful, and the hard cortex locks it up, and it gets brighter across the plate, and your walnuts can become a "circle of eyes."
