Abstract: what about the electric kettle? It's usually a small electricity problem. We can fix it ourselves. We don't have to go to the mechanic. So how do you fix the electric kettle when it's broken? Here's a little piece on how you share common failures and maintenance methods。
Five questions on the maintenance of the kettle
The electric kettle is a home, office-friendly and practical water-opening device, with simple circuit structure and easy to operate. In fact, the structures and circuits of the electro-heat kettles are identical, as are the failures and maintenance methods. Common electro-thermal magnetizers are used as examples of their working principles and frequent failure overhauls。
I. Rationale of the kettle operation
These are electro-thermal elements, with a barrier value of the heating light to the left and the temperature of the light, both of which have a high resistance value, which is a mega-european level. For a constant temperature switch, the internal temperature element is a pair of two-metal pieces, the contact point of the two-metal piece is closed when the temperature is less than °c, the contact point of the two-metal piece is severed when the temperature reaches °c. The constant heat switch is attached to the external wall of the stainless steel in the water pump and feels the temperature changes in the water inside。
(a) switch to the power supply, which is supplied and organized through closed heating switches and linked circuits, and heat and cool water; at this point, the yellow light, which is also attached to the closed end, is equivalent to a short-circuit light. When the water is burned, the heating switch is broken, the municipal power circuits are formed, and the barrier is associated with the distribution of most of the voltage at both ends, which makes the yellow light light light light, which, as an indication of temperature protection, is small and has virtually no current, so the low heating power of the red light, as a complement to the dissipation of the water, does not keep the water warm, and at this time it is in a state of temperature protection. When water temperatures fall below °c, the contact points are connected, short circuits, yellow lights are not on, the heating power becomes red lighting, and the process is repeated as a heating instruction。
Ii. Power kettles common failure repair
Thermal kettle is unheated: failure connects the power switch, heating the light is on, and water temperature is not rising。
This failure is the most common failure of this type of electro-thermal watercrew, which generally loses heating because of poor contact with the power lines due to the burning of the electro-thermal wire or the rusting of the electro-thermal tube from the end of the line. The resistance of both ends of the electro-thermal tube can be measured using a tensile array, if normal. Welding with sandpaper to the end of the line to make it strong and the failure clear. If two end-ends of the electro-heater are measured at a value of more than thousands of euros or infinity, the electro-heat wire in the tube is burned. New electro-thermal tubes need to be replaced. The method is to pre-link the water outcage from the main body of the water-crop, separate the sink from the inner urchin, remove the inner urchin from the plastic shell, the upper and lower parts of the inner urchin, secure the middle by a gasket and screw, remove the damaged electro-heat pipe with a barbed iron, weld the new electro-heated saber shell back to its proper shape, check the welding area without leaking water, and eventually install the unloaded components in their original form, so that the water can be used for electric testing。
Temperature indicator light is not hot: failure is connected to power switch, temperature indicator light is on and water temperature is not significantly higher。
The failure was caused by the burning of the heat switch and the break-out of the contact point, which could be resolved by replacing the same specification of components。
The electro-heat kettle is burned and not warmed: the malfunctioning water continues to heat up, and it can't warm itself。
This failure is caused mostly by the release of the constant temperature switch or the removal of temperature that cannot be felt correctly. If the constant temperature switch is checked to be fixed, the constant temperature switch is damaged, and its internal contact is burned, and the same specification is used for replacement。
Lights are not on, water is not boiled: malfunctions turn on the power switch, lights are not on and water temperature remains unchanged。
This is due to the high power of the electric thermal switch, the vulnerability of the power switch to burn or heat deformation, and the failure of the power switch after it is updated。
Iii. The kettle. Attention for use
Add water, check out when the water comes out of the cage, then connect to the power。
The water pump is a three core plug for the surface line, and must use a three-hole plug with the surface line to prevent electrical damage。
Before winter use, you should check for leaks at the bottom, and if leaks are handled accordingly, they are prone to short-circuit accidents。
In order to be safe, it's best not to bring electrical overhaul。
Iv. Guidelines for maintenance of common water kettle failures
One, no heat, no light. What do we do?
The failure is often due to the failure of the power supply to join the electrical thermal circuits. The overhaul can first measure resistance at the end of the 3 core plugs l and n on the base power line using a single table r x 10。
When normal, the electrical barrier is palpable when the lower re-entry switch is not pressed, and the corresponding resistance value for 1,500 w electric canteens is about 32 times when the button is pressed. If the barrier after pressing the button is still platinum, this means that the heating tube circuit is not working。
At this point, the canteen 3 core plugs n and l can be measured with the same normal value as above. If the results are normal, indicating that the fault is in the bottom, the power lines and the bottom outlets should be checked for broken or poorly connected, and the base structure is simple and the fault is generally quickly located。
If the electrical resistance is still measured as platinum, which means that the failure is in the kettle circuit, the handle mask components, etc., should be removed and repaired. Focus on the power (reset) switch and the temperature switch. Checks whether switch actions and contact breakups are good using the kiosk r x 1。
If it is found that it is not working well, it is possible to check the normality of the curved angle and the position of the switch pole, for example, of the small tongue of the sensor, otherwise it should be corrected separately. If the switch action is normal and its contact point is not connected, the switch spring or contact point is damaged and the switch box may be removed and repaired。
If the power switch is normal, most of the failure occurs at the temperature switch
First, see if the two-metal tablets are pressurized by the switch trigger (white plastic bar) and if they are overstretched, you can bend them upwards with a twig until they are between 0. 5 and 1 mm. If the distance between the two-metal piece and the switch handle is normal, the switch box should be removed and the contact points and springs of the maintenance of the thermostats removed。
What's wrong with the lights?
The instruction light is activated, indicating that the power supply has been added to the indicator light circuit, that the failure is in the electrical thermal tube or its connection, and that the common electrothermal tube is damaged and poorly exposed. Dismantling electro-thermal tubes to measure the resistance can be judged。
The electrical thermal tubes are damaged and can normally only be replaced. Poor exposure is mainly due to severe corrosive or deformed contact reeds in the power plug component, which can remove the switchbox for clean-up and repair, and the damage is best replaced。
How do we solve this?
This is mainly due to the failure of the re-entry switch. The common cause is the severe disfigurement of the sensor tablets or the disruption of the switch pole movement。
For the former, the concussion of the concussion angle of the little tongue of the thermostat allows it to drive the switch pole properly. For the latter, it is necessary to identify the blocked or alien, which generally can return to normal with the removal and correction of the alien。
4. What is the solution for constant electricity during dry burning?
The water in the pot is dried or the empty kettle is opened for some time without automatic power cuts, mostly due to the failure of the thermostat. Double metal pieces can be checked for distortion or relaxation. In the event of a deformation, the distance between the two-metal piece and the switch trigger should be 0. 5 ~1 mm. If it's loose, just screw it up。
5. How can the slow pace of heating be addressed?
Common causes are low power voltage and poor exposure to indoor power lines or plugs, which should be excluded first. The electrical thermal tube is then checked for serious accumulation, exposure between the base and the kettle power plug, etc。
If the electro-thermal tube is muddled, it can be scraped with a knife and then polished with sandpaper. If contact between the base and the pot's power plug is severely poor, the plug exposure table and contact oxidation layer, stains can be removed and the shape corrected to make the contact close and good。
