It's not fat. It's a good trick
I've seen too many farmers turn around growing potatoes for over 20 years: they're thicker than the earth, they're fatter, they're spent, they're hard, they're hard, they're hard, they're hard, they're hard, they're small, they're deformed, and they don't even have half the desired value。
A lot of people ask me, why do you have the same floors, the same seedlings, the same crotch, the same flat head, and any acre of land that you can collect more than others? Today i say the truth with my heart: it's not fertilizing much of the harvest when it's high-quality potatoes. With more fat, it's not a potato, it's hard to get a few of the core know-how to plant a seedling, and it's not too expensive to buy high-priced fat, and it's good to grow good potatoes full of chips, with a steady increase in acreage production。
First, the first step is to break the fault zone: the cassava is planted and 90% of the farmers are wrong
Let's start with the worst-case scenario, not the wrong path, and then it's all for nothing。
The first area of error: the sooner the plant is planted, the better, the sooner the plant is planted, the better. A lot of farmers have frozen in the spring, so they're rushing to plant the potato seedlings, and they think they'll grow one day early. In the spring, temperatures are unstable, cold at night and cold at spring, fresh seedlings do not sprout, light is slow, yellow leaves die, heavy is freezing the roots directly, and late light vines do not produce potatoes. Potatoes are warm crops with a surface temperature above 15°c and a minimum temperature of not less than 10°c at night, which is the best time to plant a seedling。
The second area of error: the deeper the seedling, the better, the higher the drought. It's the worst way to delay production! Many planted the whole seedling directly into the soil, leaving only the top one outside, feeling secure from drought and difficult to die. But the cassava layer, which is planted deep in the 5-15 cm layer beneath the surface, is overstretched in the soil, with its roots ploughing down, deep and scattered in the cassava position, composing when it swells, either with deformity or with a small head, and is particularly prone to “running”, with vines and vines growing, with all the leaves being fed, and underground chips growing。
The third area of error: the water is soaking up that it can survive. Chrysotile seedlings are damaged, water-absorption capacity is extremely weak, heavy flooding can lead to a deterioration of soil sheeting, air-transmission, suffocation in wet soil, and can easily rot, and even if it survives, it will take days to slow down and directly delay previous growth。
To be honest with you, the core logic of the sweet potatoes is that ** “since planting roots, managing potatoes, ventilating the earth”,** and all planting techniques come around these 12 words, and it works with two more bags of fertilizer than you。
There are two things to be done before planting: the foundation is bad and the best is useless
If we want to grow a plant with a high rate of life and a high level of late potato, the preparation before planting a plant must not be wasted, it is not complicated, it is a small thing for our farmers to do, but it is a lot more。
First thing: pick and treat potato seedlings. Throw
We have to choose the seedlings of the potato, which are thick, short-term, thick and green, 20-25 centimetres tall, and not the seedlings of the weak, yellow leaf, and worms, and which have a low survival rate and a low capacity for late potato。
After the seedlings are pulled, do not plant them directly, and do a two-step simple treatment: first, remove the two to three centimetres of old, yellow leaves from the base, retain only the 3 to 4 functions of the upper leaf, reduce the evaporation of water after planting, and avoid foliage. The soil rots and breeds bacteria; second, if necessary, the seedlings are put in water for a period of one to two hours, so that the seedlings are fully watered, so that they fall into the seedlings faster, and the rate of survival can run directly to more than 95 per cent, without the need for later seeding。
The second thing: the whole thing needs to be right. Production
Potatoes are a root crop, the more loose and ventilated the soil, the more the chips expand, the more round their heads, the easier the soil to sow, the water to water, and the smaller and smaller the potatoes, the basis on which they must grow, which is a high yield。
We don't have to be too complicated, tilling up 20-25 centimetres of land after the harvest, picking up the earth's crust and grassstones, without applying too much bottom fat, with 2,000 pounds of rotting farm fat per acre, 30 pounds of potassium sulphate compound fat enough, which is really useless。
The focus is on the rise: the length of the beam is maintained at 70-80 centimetres, the height of the beam is 25-30 centimetres, the surface is to be flat, fine, and the ditch is to be dug up, so that it can both water and drain at a later stage and allow the chips to expand into laxative space. When you get up, you have to put the earth on the ground, so that it doesn't rain and fall, and the chips that come out of it become bitter, and you're blind。
Core dry goods: planting four gold know-hows with hands to teach you how to grow
The point is, i've been growing potatoes for over 20 years, i've stepped on lots of pits, i've tried hundreds of times, i've tried the seeding tricks, i've done nothing without flowers, i've done nothing wrong, i've done nothing wrong。
Skill one: sapling depth is a dead standard, shallow planting is a high-yield core
As i just said, deep-planting is a production killer, and the best planting depth of potatoes is 5-7 cm, with an additional centimetre affecting production。
How? On the right side of the table, a pit is dug with a small shovel at a depth of five to seven centimetres, the processed seedlings are flattened in the pit, the mantle is attached to the ground, only the base of the seedlings is buried in the soil, all the leaves of the upper leaf are shown outside, the soil is slightly compacted, the roots and the soil are attached, and no gaps are left。
The benefits of shallow cultivation are too great: first, the cassava layer happens to be in a loose layer of lasagna, where the chips swell up unsqueaked, and are grown roundly, without deformity; second, where the temperature of the earth rises rapidly, where the cassava is warm, where the roots are high, where the roots are fast and the roots are fast, where the masons are long, where the potatoes are early; and third, where there is no run-off, where the nutrients can be finely delivered to the ground, rather than to the whole of the vines, where there is a marked increase in the number of potatoes。
I've seen farmers plant more than 15 centimetres deep, and at the end of the harvest, one cave has only one or two small potatoes, while five or seven centimetres shallow, three or four flat potatoes, can be seen in the production gap。
The trick two: planting the right pose, flatting is the best. Wang
Our farmers grow potatoes, which are often grown in three ways: straight, tilted, flat, 90 per cent of the people use straight, but flat, which is the best position for a large and large potato。
(a) direct planting: the planting of seedlings vertically into the soil, deep and stable, but with little and small potatoes, suitable for arid and water-deficit slopes, with no recommendation for high-yielding plots
Slashing: potato seedlings are tilted into the soil, with more amounts of potatoes than direct cultivation, but with different lengths, with large and uneven sizes of the chips, and with easy availability of small and large potatoes
As i said earlier, the level of the trachea is buried in 5-7 centimetres of soil, the length of the staves is laid in the pine layer, each of the stairwells is grown with roots and chips, and all of the chips are on the same layer of soil, with a balanced nutrient supply and a consistent rate of expansion, without large and small sizes, with a full cassava full of round and a much larger amount of potatoes than a straight planting。
Remember when you're doing it: the whole level of the trachea, don't bend, the ground is covered only in the tub, the leaves are all exposed, easy to remember, the new hands can learn at once。
Script three: the distance between the lines is fine, and it's less productive
Many farmers either grow more seedlings, with a particularly small distance, or plant them at random, with a small distance, and end up with vines that hide each other, without potatoes, or land that is wasted and produced。
The fixed range of 25-30 centimetres and 70-80 centimetres of the high production of red potatoes is the most suitable of 3,000-3,500 seedlings per acre, certified by numerous farmers。
The length of the plant is less than 25 cm, the end-stage sealing of the vines is too early, the fields are luminous, the leaves of the potatoes cover each other, there is insufficient light co-operation, no nutrients, the size of the chips below the ground is small and pests are prone; the distance is more than 30 cm, the land use rate is too low and the number of seedlings per acre is insufficient, and the total yield cannot rise even if there are more individual potatoes。
When planting, we can draw a line, mark it at a distance of 25-30 centimetres, line it up, line it up, manage it later, and save time for harvesting。
The trick is to plant the water and water it
When the plant is finished, many people are wrong about the water, bearing in mind that there must be no heavy water, and that small water must be poured into the water。
For each plant, water is slowly watered with a small canteen or a thin pipe, following a ditch, so that the water slowly penetrates into the root of the potato seedling, so that the root soil is wet enough not to accumulate water, and the soil is best “wet or not”。
The benefits of small water: first, the soil will not be washed down, and the seedlings will not be diverted; secondly, the soil will not be sheeted, well ventilated, the roots will be able to breathe quickly and root quickly, and the seeding time will be reduced by three to five days; and thirdly, there will be no dead seedlings with guaranteed survival。
When the soil surface is slightly white and the root is stable, the soil is replaced with a small amount of water depending on the soil's condition, so that the soil does not have to be dry for the preceding period, so that the management of the water contributes to the laying down of the roots and lays the foundation for the later masonry。
Iv. 3 days after planting, critical care to keep the harvest alive and clean
The planting of seedlings was not a one-off event, and three days after the planting was a critical period for the planting of seedlings, with these three points of care in place, with a strong seedling, and with no loss at a later stage。
First, it was completed that day. In the morning, the seedlings went to the ground to be examined, to remove the dead, the weak, and the saplings, and to replace them in a timely manner, in the same manner as before, so as to ensure that the whole land is so strong that there is no shortage of saplings, and that, in the absence of a seedling, a few pounds of potatoes are lost。
Secondly, moderate pine soil, the shield is taking root. About three days after planting, when the soil surface is half dry, a small beak is used to graze the sheeted piece of earth, which is at a depth of 3-5 cm, and does not damage the seedling system. The pine soil improves soil aerobicity, warms the ground, allows the seedlings to grow fast, slow and grow more rapidly。
Thirdly, drought-proof and sun-proof. If the seedlings are so hot that the sun is too hot, we can sow a thin piece of straw and dry grass on the cheeks, which will cover the sun, avoid the tan, protect the seedlings from drought, and prevent the growth of the weeds, one by one, without paying for the membranes, and save the effort。
V. Final reminder: stop fertilization and control is more important than anything
And finally, i want to stress to our farm friends that the high production of potatoes is really not based on extra fertilizer。
When planting, the bottom is fat enough, not fatter, until the root of the red potato is swollen (about 60 days after planting) and 20 pounds of potassium sulphate fat per acre, so don't apply any more nitrogen fattening, more than one dose of nitrogen fattening, the vine is long, the leaves grow taller than men, the ground chips don't swell at all, and finally they are empty and in vain。
When the vines grow later, do not turn over the vines. Just lift them gently and break their roots. Toads damage leaves and affect light co-operation. As long as the pre-planting know-how is right, the cassava nutrients are concentrated on chips, and they don't go crazy and long。
I'll end with a few words
This is never about who's fatter, who's strong, who's smart and who's key. A steady increase in acre production is not a difficult task。
These are my well-established planting experiences, and there is no lull. It's not easy for us farmers to grow. Every cent of our strength and every penny is spent on the blade, less on the curve, less on the pit, more on food and more on the money。
This year's cassava grower's friend, write down these planting techniques and do them in the field, and when the fall harvests, look at the vastly round potatoes, you'll know how to save your heart and make a fortune
Topical discussion
How do you grow potatoes? Have you ever tried planting? What's the problem with growing potatoes this year
A sweet hint
The best time for seedlings is to stabilize the local surface temperature above 15°c, avoiding spring colds; to flatten the troughs must be buried shallowly and deep-seated; and to decomposition is dominated by decomposition farmers, with less nitrogen fertilization and no longing。
