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And the old saying is, "the white onions, the cold onions, and the garlic, and the white onions, then the cabbage grows mad." every year, when the heat rises, the day and night rises, the day light is full, the temperature is warm, the night is cool and wet, there is no hot hot sun in the summer, and there is no cold frost in the autumn, the most comfortable and fast-growing window period for large cabbage。
A friend with an experience in vegetables knows that cabbage's front-stage long leaves and roots are the foundation, and the state of growth in the second half of the day is a direct decision as to whether the cabbage can be wrapped up, ball sizes, tastes good or bad. Many people grow cabbage, and the green oil that was long before looks particularly good, and eventually comes up with looseness, rotten leaves, empty wood, and uneven sizes, due in part to inadequate fertilizers, or pests or the wrong way to water。
The growing of vegetables is never carried out blindly, especially during the cabbage season, and watering is a delicate task. The cabbage that follows the white field officially enters the “long ball season”, and leaves move from flatting to internal consolidation, with large layers of condensation, with the whole plant requiring a large amount of water supply but extremely afraid of water accumulation and dry and wet. Today we are going to give you details of the whole set of hands-on practices that water the half-month after the whites, including watering times, watering volumes, frequency, noxious fault zones, together with maintenance techniques, and the ease with which newers can grow fast, full, clean balls and empty, high-quality cabbage。
I. Understanding the rationale: why water when exposed and determine the final production of cabbage
There's a bad spot for a lot of starters, and they think that cabbage keeps growing leaves, watering them up, drying them up. In fact, the growing cycle of cabbage, the demand for moisture is completely phased, and whites are a critical watershed。
The cabbage before the whites is pre-premature, pre-leaving. During this period, cabbage is mainly based on long roots and excreted leaves, with small stands and low water requirements. Overwatering and soil moisture at this time can lead to shallow roots, long leaves, weak foliage, post-reversibility poor and prone to fallback disease. So the early autumn cabbage, we've been promoting "crawling in water control" with less water, less lax soil and deeper roots。
And the 15 days between the white show and the fall are the late stage of cabbage, the beginning of the ball, and the long-term peak of water demand. At this stage, the growth focus of cabbage has changed completely, not just long leaves, but the rapid fragmentation of the heart leaves, the thickening of the blades, and the rapid expansion of the leaf ball, often referred to by the vegetable farmers as “buckets”。
The number of leaves in the cabbage at this stage is largely fixed, with all nutrients and moisture, all of which are concentrated in the production of leafball. At this time, the plant is thick and evaporated, and soil moisture is consumed very quickly. If the water supply fails to keep pace, the growth of the heart leaves is hampered and the leaves are not properly collected, there is a loose heart, a small head and a bitter mouth。
At the same time, however, rain has gradually increased after white dew, air moisture is high, cabbage floors are wrapped and ventilation is deteriorating. If the water is overwatered and sunk, the lack of oxygen in the soil leads to the decay of the roots, which in turn leads to molluscs, frosting, problems of yellow leaves at the bottom, a rotten heart ball and a whole rotting fall。
A brief summary: the platinum doesn't last long, the water is rotten, and only when water is right can a tree be filled. That is why the same seeds, the same plots, some of them are extremely high-yielding and of excellent quality, and others are growing mixed and inferior。
Ii. 15 days after the white whites are water water-ready: time, frequency, water complete
There are no uniform fixed criteria for the watering of white cabbage, which are adapted flexibly to weather conditions, soil and soil quality, and the size of the plant, and are divided into three types of weather, rain and rain water management, and drought recharge, each with a corresponding standard, which can be operated directly against the home。
Optimal watering time frame: avoid high temperatures and mornings, only two golden periods
The cabbage is watered during the season and the timing is wrong, even if the amount of water is appropriate. Many people are accustomed to watering the sun at noon, with dew in the morning, which is a typical error。
Best watering time: 8-10 a. M. And 4-6 p. M
At 8 a. M. To 10 a. M., the temperature of the sun rises steadily, and the cooling of the soil slowly fades off at night. At this time, the water is warm, the temperature of the earth is almost flat and does not stimulate the cabbage roots. When water is poured, the excess water in the soil surface quickly evaporates as the light rises, avoiding stifling at night。
At 4 p. M. To 6 p. M., the high temperatures faded and the surface temperature declined, at which point the water could be used as a timely supplement to the evaporated water consumed by cabbage during the day and to provide sufficient moisture for the expansion of the heart leaf and the accumulation of nutrients at night. Be careful not to pour water after dark in the evening, with low night temperatures, no light, poor ventilation, wet soil throughout the night after watering, extremely susceptible to bacteria and causing bad ball disease。
We must avoid two taboos
The first is the extremely high surface temperature between 11 p. M. And 3 p. M., when cold water is used to cause a steep decline in the temperature of the ground, a sharp contraction of the roots of the pores, disruption of the capacity to absorb water, and a “physiological drought” in which the blades develop rapidly, which in the long run leads to a stagnating plant。
Second, by 6 a. M., when the leaves are covered with dew, the field is already saturated, re-watering the leaves will cause long-term waterfalls, and frosty and white spots will erupt。
2. Standard watering frequency: differential treatment of sand, clay, border soil
It is absolutely impossible to generalize the frequency of water recharge, which varies from land quality to land, and it is counterproductive to follow the rhythm of others. Fifteen days after the white light, the core principle is to see the dry and wetness of the soil and water, which must be poured out。
Sand plots
The sand is well ventilated, poorly protected, the water loss is fast, and in arid weather, it is recommended that water be poured over two to three days. The sandy soil is ablaze by flooding, and the water is quickly leaking, and the roots are not inhaled and the fat is wasted. Each watering session is based on a 15-20 cm earth layer of wet ground, which coincides with the growth layer of the main cabbage。
Land block of the border (the most suitable soil for cabbage)
The water-smooth balance on the border is a high-quality soil grown by cabbage, which can be filled with water four to five days in conventional daylight. Twenty-four hours after the water is poured, the soil surface is slightly humid, and deep soils are soft and watery, which is most conducive to the expansion of cabbage。
Sticky plots
The clay is so thin, so strong in water conservation and so poorly ventilated that it is most afraid of water accumulation. The wetness after the white dew is high, the adhesive land is enough for about seven days, and the principle of non-wetting is followed throughout. As long as the leaves are not swollen and the earth's surface is not broken, there is no need to water it, and it is frequent with a completely rotten ball。
3. Precision watering: “thirty water without water” for the end of the ball period and zero error by the newcomer
Many people grow foods that can't control the amount of water, either by pouring a little wet skin and not drinking water at the root, or by pouring water into the low. Here is a summary of the core mouths of the white cabbage watering: small water intruding, fear of flooding, fear of dry and wet extremes。
Three: drought will be served, leaves will be served after noon, and loose soil will be served
In the absence of rain for more than five days in a row, the surface of the soil is dry and dry, and water must be poured out in time to avoid a shortage of water in the cabbage; in the light of daytime light, the leaves outside the cabbage have a slight piping down, which signals a lack of water and fills the water in a timely manner; before the water is poured into the soil, the soil is soaked, and the water is evenly permeated, and the absorption efficiency is doubled。
No: no rain, no wet soil, no disease
In consecutive rainy weather, the field is saturated, completely saturated, and the drainage canals must be filled in a timely manner; the soil is squeezed and loosed to indicate that the water is sufficient and no water is required; and when yellow leaves, rotten leaves and minor diseases are present in the kitchen, the water is cut off and the moisture is reduced to prevent the disease from spreading。
Iii. The most easily neglected water-watered areas, with 90% of vegetable farmers stepping on them. The pit
In addition to being poorly watered, much of the cabbage is trapped in common error zones. These seemingly minor errors have a direct impact on cabbage production, which is self-checked and corrected in a timely manner。
Zone one: one-time flood from drought
Following a prolonged drought, the root of the cabbage is under water stress, and many people, in an effort to save their lives, pour water directly into it. This is a highly harmful operation, with prolonged drought causing slow growth of cabbage leaves, tight cellular walls, sudden and massive water intakes, rapid expansion of the heart leaf and delayed growth of the outer leaf, which can easily cause cabbage cracks and hollow spaces. At the same time, the soil is dry and wet, root stress is impaired and resistance to disease is significantly reduced。
The right approach: to water the soil after a drought, half a day before water is poured through, to replenish the water gradually, and to adapt the plant slowly to water changes。
Mistake two: water not pine soil, soil sheet cisterns
Following long-term watering and rain showers, the topsoil of the vegetable field is easily hardened and the moisture is impermeable and all accumulates on the surface. The surface looks at the soil wet and the root layer lacks water, and the ground is poorly ventilated, the roots are prevented from breathing and their growth is weakened。
The correct approach: 2-3 days after each watering, when the soil is semi-dry, shallow pine soil, with depths of 3-5 cm, is sufficient to avoid root damage. The pine soil protects both the water and the air。
Miss three: the water belt is too fat
Cabbage needs to be fatter and water, and many people feel that it is growing more quickly together, and every two to three days it is flushed. Frequent water fattening can lead to soil saline accumulation, burning roots and premature decay, while growing long, thin leaves, loosely covered hearts and diseases。
The right approach: white-cut ball season, full-scale control of water fattening, one or two fattings in 15 days, combined with a permutation of water, and water without fertilizer for the rest of the time。
Mistake iv: field water is not released in time
The autumn rains followed the whites, and many open vegetables sprung water after rain, which is considered to be a living water. In fact, cabbage is the most afraid of water accumulation, which lasts for more than six hours, and the root system suffers from oxygen suffocation, and problems with rotting roots, yellow leaves and soft rotting balls in about three days。
Correct approach: drains are drained around pre-drinking grounds, water is seen in the fields first after the rain, it is washed quickly and it is humid in time。
Iv. Conservancy of cabbage after exposure, with water and a tight heart
Watering is the foundation of the cabbage ball, combined with simple conservation work, which doubles the size of the cabbage, is tight, flat and non-destructive, and later harvests are stored and sweet。
1. Timely removal of leaves from old leaves, ventilation and wetting
The bottom of the cabbage breeds some of the aging and infirm leaves, which not only do not produce nutrients for photosynthesis, but also prevent ventilation, consume water fattening, accumulate moisture and become hotbeds for insect eggs。
Method of operation: only the lower yellow, rotten and sick leaves close to the ground will be removed, the upper function green leaves will be preserved and the leaves will not be disproportionately removed. Leave-picking is selected to be performed in the morning of the sun, and the wound can be quickly dried up, with a significant increase in ventilation in the field after it is removed and effective in preventing ball disease。
It's not blind
The core of fertilisation for the cabbage season is the appropriate nitrogen for high potassium and a small amount for microfertilization. Overweight nitrogen can only grow vanilla leaves with loose hearts; potassium is full, leaves are thick, leaves are tight and patient。
Following the first watering after the white run, a suitable amount of potassium sulphate fertilizer per acre can be followed up to contribute to the expansion of the follicles; if yellow and weak bellows are found, they can be combined with thin leaf fertilizers to supplement calcium, magnesium trace elements to prevent dry charries and follicle emptiness. The total elimination of single urea application and the avoidance of long-planting。
Three, a little foliage protection ball. Heart
A simple bundle of leaves may be used in late periods for long, swollen cabbage. Squeeze the outer blades with soft ropes, so that they are not too tight and leave a ventilated gap. This will protect the inner heart ball, avoid raining water and soil contamination, while preventing the wind from falling, allowing the leaf ball to concentrate on increasing nutrients and making the ball more compact。
4. Moderate control of seedlings and avoidance of masters
Lighted and well-watered plots make cabbage prone to long leaves and long leaves without balls. It was found that the plant was too long and the leaf was loose, that it was immediately reduced in frequency, that nitrogen fertilizer supplements were stopped, and that it was being pressured to shift from long leaves to condensed balls through water control。
V. Relevant questions: specific solutions to survey questions
Why is the cabbage so loose
The core causes are water and moisture, excessive nitrogen fattening and insufficient light. In the early stages of the drought, heavy water surged, leading to heartleaf growth disorders; excess nitrogen, insufficient potassium fattening, and loose foliage that could not be tightened up. Effective improvement can be achieved by maintaining steady watering, potassium-added nitrogen control。
What about cabbage
Ninety per cent are soft rots caused by the wetness of the fields, the strangulation of water and poor ventilation. Solutions: reduction in water irrigation, timely drainage after rain, lax harvesting of old leaves, reduction of field humidity, maintenance of ventilation and drying, and significant reduction in disease。
3. How can be improved when cabbage is empty and the taste is bad
This is mainly due to dry water shortages, uneven water fertilisation and late decomposition. During the ball season, the soil is kept damp, dry and unwatered, potassium fat is replenished in the middle and later stages to avoid early decay, and the cabbage is grown full of juicy and sweet。
Topical interaction
Did your cabbage begin to pick up after the white show? Do you usually grow food that you like to water or control? Welcome to the comment area to share your experiences and the challenges you've encountered in growing your vegetables. I think it's good to have dry food
Disclaimer
The agricultural techniques used in this paper apply only to ordinary open-air, daejeon cabbage areas, with variations in climate, soil quality, variety and effectiveness. This is an experience-sharing exercise and is not the only basis for planting。
