Many confirmed that the gold bullets could not be planted in july or august, insisting that they would die as soon as possible。
It is not a simple choice between “capable” and “failable” but a question of “how” to “sap”. A man who behaves recklessly may die, even in the face of a long and thriving cortex; and a man who has the means to avoid a critical trap is not less likely to survive than a spring or fall。
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First of all, there is an error zone: the gold bullet is not a fragile species that is afraid of the cold and warm; it prefers warm, wet and half-suffering; it is a suitable growth period in april-november each year; and the heat in july and august is not a dead end, but rather a problem that needs to be addressed。
The only two core issues that really failed in the transfer of the gold bullets in july and august — water imbalance and fake living — are the result of human mishandling and not the season itself。
First of all, let's be clear: not all gold bullets can be planted in july or august, and no attempt can be spared。
Small, weak, new stakes are just in the pot, and you can't save them even if you're so skilled. The seedlings are fragile and resistant, the high temperature and strong light of july/august will quickly dry their water, and the damaged roots will not be able to absorb the water recharge, and in three days the leaves will be blackened and eventually the whole plant will die。
Those who can migrate in july and august are only strong, well-developed composts or saplings. The absorption capacity and resistance of such seedlings is strong enough to protect against the heat test and to keep them alive, which is also why many of the senior pelvis players will choose to move gold bullets in the summer。
The first core technique: cutting leaves down and closing the “facility” of water loss。
Many were unable to cut their leaves, believing that the leaves would recover more quickly, but it was unknown that every gold blade in july and august was a “water pump”. When the roots are damaged, the capacity to absorb the moisture is significantly reduced, while the leaves continue to evaporate wildly, and the imbalance is the beginning of the death of the plant。
A small number of functional leaves are to be retained for light co-operation, the rest of the leaves are to be cut completely and the larger leaves are to be cut in half in order to reduce water evaporation and reduce the burden of damaged root systems. Don't worry about the leaves. They're gone. They're gone. They're broken。
The second core technique: protection from high temperatures and “temperature protection” for plants。
Gold bullets love the sun, but they must not be tanned, even when they are scattered. At midday in july, strong light could reach 38°c or more, and direct sunburning could lead to an increase in the temperature of the pelvis and damage to the roots of the burns, while accelerating the atrophy of the leaves and even causing false activity。
After planting, it is necessary to build a shelter to cover more than 80 per cent of the sunlight, so that the plant will grow in a cold and ventilated environment, which will last for at least 15 to 20 days, until the new leaf grows, the roots are restored, the light is gradually increased, and the sun is never tanned。
The shift time should also be right, avoiding periods of high noon temperatures, and giving preference to shades or evenings, where lower temperatures and better ventilation reduce water evaporation, give the plant sufficient time to adapt and significantly increase the rate of survival。
The third core technique is water control of the basin, with the taboo of drought “half-water cut-off”。
Watering was the key to the removal of gold bullets in july and august, and was the most prone to error, with many people either pouring too much water into the roots, or too little water causing dry and dry seedlings, and others pouring “half-wield water”, and the roots failing to suck water and ultimately losing their credit。
The gold bullet prevents the soil from accumulating water for a long time, and in the high temperatures of july/august, the pottery water is given to the roots of the roots of the sauna, which will rot in less than a week. When planting occurs, the soil is soaked with a firm root water that the root system and the soil are closely bound together, then the soil is wet enough to be wet enough to be wet enough to follow the principle of “dry-see-wetting” and the soil surface is white and then watered。
The choice of pelvis should not be overlooked, and it is necessary to select a finely defusing, drained micro-acid soil, which is proposed to be formulated at a ratio of 4:3:3 in the foliage, river sand and garden soil, increasing the permeability and drainage of the pellets, avoiding the use of sticky soils, which are susceptible to accumulation of water, and is a taboo for shifting cultivation。
There's also a key detail: there's absolutely no fertilisation。
Many people believe that fertilization after planting can quickly restore the plant without knowing that the damaged roots are not able to absorb fertilizer at all and can be burned by fertilizer, which causes the roots to rot and worsen the snow. At least one month after the plant is moved, the new leaf will grow, the plant will recover, and a small amount of thin fertilizer will be applied gradually and cannot be urgently achieved。
In addition, as much as possible, earthballs are kept in the process of planting, which protect the root system and reduce the damage to the root system. The size of the earthballs is determined by the path of the plant, usually five to eight times the size of the earth's path. They are well packaged to avoid the dispersion of the ball, which results in extensive damage to the root system and significantly reduces the rate of survival。
In the case of nudist planting, the root is trimmed, the decaying, damaged root system is cut, the polybacterial solution is impregnated, dryed and the disease is reduced, which is also a key step in avoiding false work。
A lot of people think they're alive when they see a new baby with a golden bullet。
This fake bud is driven by the planting of nutrients that are stored in itself, rather than by the absorption of hydronutrients in the new roots, and when the nutrients in the branches are depleted, the bud will dry and the plant will die. At high temperatures in july and august, false work was more common, the core reason being the failure of the roots to recover and to absorb water normally。
To judge whether it is real or not, the new sprouts are long and slow, but when they grow, they grow strong and expand, they are real; but they grow fast, but they grow thin and slowly dry, and they are fake, and when they heal, the success rate is extremely low。
Finally, it should be stressed that the golden bomb, which was able to move in july and august, could not be moved, but rather could not be dry or operated blindly。
Without superstitious “spring and autumn before planting”, the high rate of spring and autumn migration is due to the fact that the temperature is appropriate and simple, rather than to the advantages of the season itself; it is difficult to move in july, but with the three cores of “leave cutting, shade-covering, water control”, avoiding a false activity trap and choosing a robust corset, the survival rate is also over 80 per cent。
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Those who said that they could not move in july/august either lacked the skills or tried blindly with small seedlings and failed to do so in general terms. Gold-raising bullets, which do not go blind, find the right way, and in the summer they can be successfully planted。
♪ golden bomb ♪
