Mountain tea flowers, dubbed "the petals of the flowers" are folded like silk, and the colours change from red to white, and they are both expensive and elegant. Whether the courtyard is planted or the balcony is planted with a few mountain tea flowers, a romantic flower can be harvested in spring. Today we'll teach you the core techniques of planting, conservation, and you'll have your tea and your year-round
I. Selection of “line of departure”: seedlings, soil, flower basins
1. Sapling selection: a combination of face and health
- watching the leaves: selecting the plants of the leaves with a bright green, non-blank, with no eggs or a web of spiders (watching the red spider)。
- the chagan system: the roots of health are white or light brown, non-black and adhesive; if the net buys a bare seed, it is necessary to choose a full and multi-skinned root, which is impregnated with raw water for 30 minutes before planting。
- choosing varieties: newcomers recommend “resisting” varieties, such as fragrance (smelling and disease-resistant), “cremer’s great police” (frequent and adaptable); and “eighteen” (small colours and appreciation)。
2. Land-cutting formula: acid estration is key
Micro-tacid soil with ph 5. 5-6. 5, bearing in mind the principle of “two pine and one fat”:
- formula: 4 foliages (or pines) + 3 coarse coconut shells/ pearl rock + 2 garden soil + 1 decrepit sheep dung
- secret: a monthly “acid water” (1 litre water + 1 drop of white vinegar or 5 grams of iron sulphate) to prevent yellow leaves resulting from soil alkaliation。
3. Flower-basket selection: air-breathing, appropriate size
- materials: priority pottery, purple sand basins, followed by plastic green mountain basins (with many holes in the bottom), porcelain basins, pelvis basins (unventilated root)。
- dimensions: saplings with a diameter of 15-20 cm basins, saplings are replaced every two years, new basins are 5-10 cm larger than the old basins, and bottom mats are 5 cm thick tile/polyp water extraction。
Ii. The golden period: an operational guide for spring and fall
1. Best time: march-april/september-october
- spring planting: before the buds of the flowers begin to grow, it helps to slow down; autumn planting: temperatures fall around 25°c, roots grow fast, avoiding high summer temperatures and cold winter。
Upper step: “type 2 plus 3 light pressure”
1 debasket processing: original seedlings are removed light-basket walls and the protective soil is preserved; naked seedlings are trimmed with roots, roots, wounds are coated with morbid spirits。
2 methods of planting: pottery at the bottom of the basin, filling with one third of the soil, seedlings (root and pott level), light-planting on the edge of the soil, ensuring a stretching of the roots and 2 cm of watering space on the ground。
3 sterilized root water: draught along the basin until water permeated at the bottom of the basin, with 7 to 10 days of light spread without fertilization or tan。
Conservation core: light, water, fat, four-step cutting
1. Lights: semi-clause most comfortable
- spring and autumn: 4 to 6 hours a day of mild sunlight (optimistic east balcony, window edge) to promote thawing。
Summer: 50% shade! Avoid the midday light and leave the north balcony or tree shade, otherwise the leaves will be charred。
- winter: the southern open ground can be winterized, the north moved below 0°c, the south balcony received full-day photos and increased its resilience to the cold。
Watering: wet and dry rather than wet
- determination of dry wetness: insert a bamboo chopstick into the bottom of the basin and remove it with no wet air; fill the surface with water when white and leaves are soft。
- frequency of watering: once in spring and autumn, 3-4 days in the summer, morning and evening in the summer (shining from noon), once in winter, 7-10 days in the winter, close to room temperature (one day in advance)。
- wetting techniques: the dry season (especially in the north) where water is sprayed around the plant (other flowers) or a basin of water is placed by the basin, with air humidity above 60%。
Fertilization: “fatful and diligent” phased
- long-term (march-may): high nitrogen fats (e. G., ripe bean pie, multi-flower) promoting the emergence of new branches once in 10 days。
- cultivation period (june-august): phosphorus potassium fertilizer (1,000 times more potassium phosphate, or 2 more flowers), root + leaf spray, seven days once until the flower is coloured。
- post-flower fattening (after april): balanced fertilizer (in combination with potassium nitrogen phosphorus), supplementing nutrients consumed in flowering, 2 times a week, 2 times a row。
- prohibition of fattening over 30°c in the summer and up to 10°c in the winter to avoid fattening and burning roots。
Cutting: after-cut, weak cut, make-up
- post-flower shearing (focus): within one week of the flowering, cut off the flowers (with 1-2 leaves), trimmed the twigs, the internal branch, cut the long branch by one third, and promoted the emergence of the new side branch (the flower branch in the coming year)。
- daily shearing: timely cutting of yellow leaves and branches of disease (such as leaves infected with anthrax) and maintenance of ventilation。
- modelling: one or two sprouts of seedlings, boosting branches; three or five branches of the adult tree, with the rest of the muscular branches cut off, forming a full crown。
Iv. Finding of relevant questions: quicking the mountain water water and place hana
1. Flower fall? Three reasons to check
- deficiencies: unreduced potassium phosphate fertilizer during pregnancy buds (september-october), resulting in stunting of flowers
- improper watering: dry, wet or watering of flowers, causing decay
- inadequate light: chronic lack of light, weak light cooperation and inadequate nutrient supply。
The leaves are yellow, the spots? Treatment
- iron-deficit yellow leaves: yellow new leaves, green leaves, iron-sulphate solution (1,000 times) once a month
- anthrax: circular black and brown spots of leaves, timely removal of sick leaves, 1,000 times the dose of methyl tobuzin, once a week, three times a series
- red spiders: dense white dots on the back of the leaves, greened and ash on the leaves, sprayed with 1,500 times the fluid of the avil, focused on the back of the leaves, once for five days and twice in a row。
3. Years without flowers? Stay out of 2 big mistakes
- overcuting: in the autumn (frequent thawing period) cutting of branches and miscuting of buds
- the temperature difference is not sufficient: the temperature in the north is too high (>20°c), the buds are not normalized and the plant needs to experience temperatures of 5-10°c (approximately 1 month) during the winter。
V. Progress technology: diversity in land, border
1. Grounding: selection is key
- location: selection of well-drained, semi-varnished eastern or northern open land to avoid western sun and low-lying water
- soil improvement: dig 80 cm x 80 cm pits, fill in foliage + soil + sulfur powder (tacidity), 1 - 1. 5 m range, plant back needles/crumbs to cover the surface, wet the weeds。
2. The balconies: root control, flower promotion techniques
- small pots of roots: the mountain roots do not like “houses”, but rather grow with small pots (the roots tend to divide buds more easily when they are congested)
- water for flowering: when flowers are coloured, the frequency of watering is reduced (extension of the flowering period) and rain is avoided (preventing the falling flower)。
The final words are: be patient, and wait for the flowers to bloom
Mountain tea flowers, though not so much a buddhist system, possess the three cores of acid soil, rational light and phased fertilization, allowing them to bloom every year. Every step of the way is gardening. Now plant the next mountain tea flower, and let's see it smile like a flower in the spring of next year
