Whether they grow tomatoes in the garden or on the balcony, many friends are confused: the tomato seedlings go up, look strong and either bear only a few fruits, or they are small and thick and even fall back and fall sick. Someone just asked if the tomato seed was gonna crush it
Let's give you a clear answer: the tomato seed must be crushed! Pressure branches are the key to high-yielding and strong tomatoes and are more useful than simple water fertilization. A lot of people can't grow tomatoes, but they ignore the details of the pressure. - either squid or he's blind, and then he's in vain。
One might ask, "what's the pressure on the branch?" in plain words, it's the light-throwing of the tomatoes' penis, and it's fixed with soil, and it's attached to the ground for a long time, waiting for a new root to grow, and then it continues to grow. Don't underestimate this simple move. There's a lot of doorways in there, and more than you can imagine。
Let's say why it is important to tell you some of the most tangible benefits from a practical planting perspective。
The first is also crucial: promoting roots and making seedlings stronger. In contrast to other vegetables, tomatoes can easily grow unsettled roots on the penis and can quickly take root as long as they are exposed to the soil and wet. Embrace the penis into the soil and these non-stable roots will grow smoothly, amounting to an additional batch of “small absorbent straws” for tomatoes. Old roots suck nutrients, new roots suck water, fertilizer, both sides, and it's hard for a seedling to be strong! It is also highly developed, and its ability to resist backslides and pests will increase, and the wind will not easily be blown down and the probability of disease will decrease。
The second advantage is to control the long and avoid the fruitless. Many people grow tomatoes, with tall and thin seedlings, and the leaves are so thick, they don't bloom, they don't bear fruit; that's the master. The reason for this is simple: the top advantage is so obvious that the nutrients are all concentrated on the top leaves and there are no extra nutrients to feed the buds. And it's easy to solve this problem by overcrowding the penis, which inhibits the top advantage and allows the nutrients to be evenly distributed, boosting both the strong leaves and the buds and the fruits of the sit-ins, and never again “failures”。
Third benefit: increase the outcome branch and increase production. After crushing the branches, not just the main stem can produce results, but also the plume of the plume, which can also bloom later, amounting to many more “positions”. And it's better, it's more radiant, it's more tanned, it's sweeter, and it's not easy to have twigs and rotten fruit。
Speaking of which, i'm sure you'd like to know when it's the most appropriate time to crush it. How is that right? Now, don't worry, we're going to talk about the details of the operation, without the complicated tools, the little shovels and the little stones in the house。
First of all, it is particularly crucial, too early and too late. The best time is for tomatoes to grow to about 40 centimetres, at which time the penis is strong and resilient, difficult to break, and the best time to inhibit growth and promote roots. Saplings grow and can be pressured about 35 centimetres; when they grow weak, they are pressured up to about 45 centimetres to avoid crushing them. And keep in mind that when the sun is dry or the afternoon is fine, and do not water the branches in the rain, the soil is damp and the penis wounds are susceptible to infection, causing the seed to rot. Also, it would be better not to pour water three days before the stubble, so that the penis is a little softer, more resilient, and not easy to crush。
It's then a concrete operational step, three steps, simple and simple. The first step is to sort the soil around the seedlings, defusing the soil, removing the weeds, avoiding weeds for nutrients and facilitating the subsequent planting of the penis. The second step is the selection of a penis of 20-30 cm below the plant, which is the most dynamic, the most prone to uncertainty about root and does not affect the growth of the upper leaf. Slightly overwhelm this part of the penis with your hand, with a softer force, without breaking it, preferably with an angle of 45 degrees, which is conducive to exposure to the soil and ensures a normal tan on the upper leaf. The third step, burying the overstretched penis with soil, 5-8 centimetres thick, not too deep for breathing, nor too light for the wind to blow up. When buried, light pressure is applied, a little water is poured to keep it wet and help to keep the roots unsettled; if the soil is loose, small stones are used to crush the ground to prevent the chickens from rebounding。
To share a small technique, the branches can be overridden by rows, i. E. North and south in the first and second rows, so as to ensure ventilation, avoid later foliage and reduce pests. In addition, the yellow leaves and the sick leaves on the penis are removed when the branches are pressured, and the waste of the nutrients breeds the fungus, which can lead to more concentration and reduce the spread of the disease。
After the fall, several points must be kept in mind, otherwise it would be easy to lose effort and even damage the seedlings。
First, don't pour too much water right after the twig. Just after the branch has been pressed, there are wounds to the penis, too much water can cause the soil to accumulate and the wounds to rot. It would be preferable to water it two to three days after the swire, to keep the soil humid, and then fertilize normally when new roots are seen to grow。
Second, check in time to prevent the chicken from rebounding. One or two days after the fall, if the ground is blown up by the wind or the penis bounces, the ground will be refilled to ensure close contact between the penis and the soil。
The third point, with rational management of water fertilizer. The branches are meant to give root and grow a tree, and fattening is the basis. Do not apply too much nitrogen fat on the branches, otherwise the seedlings will grow again and will be subject to additional phosphorus fattening, such as potassium phosphate, diluting leaves or rooting in water, which will contribute to splitting the buds and making the fruit more full. In addition, the application of decomposed organic fertilizers, such as goat dung and chicken dung, every 10 to 15 days, can both feed and improve soil permeability and the development of root systems。
Fourth, adapt the pressure to the variety. Shorty tomatoes are not high in themselves, they don't have to press the branches, and they easily overwhelm the lower penis. It is possible; the infinity-growing tomatoes are strong and need to be pressurized several times, usually up to the three to four eardrums, with a second crushing branch, bending the top about 20 centimetres, adjusting the height of the plant and promoting subsequent results。
A lot of friends would ask, "what's the difference between pressure and fork?" is that why you don't have to do it? I would like to make it clear to you that the two are different management approaches and one is not necessary. Forklifting is the removal of extra side branches, avoiding wasteful nutrients, and concentrating nutrients on the main tubers and fruit; the crushing branches are rooting, mastering and producing branches, which combine to make tomatoes stronger and more productive。
Let me tell you the real story of my last year, i planted two rows of tomatoes in the garden, one row of the branches, the other row of the unpressed branches, all the same. The final difference is clear: the row of stubbles is a strong one, with a thick, well-developed root, each bearing more than 20 fruit, big and sweet, with little or no bad or green fruit; and the row without stubble is tall and thin and prone to fall back, each bearing only a few fruit, small and sour, and leaves with a lot of ill leaves。
So the tomato pressure branch is really not too much, it is the simplest practical booster technique that can easily be learned by new and old growers. A lot of old farmers say that if tomatoes are to be productive and water is not enough to fatten them, it's important to get the crotch to "head down" — what we call "head down" here is what we're talking about。
Finally, the focus should be on: the tomato seedlings must be on a branch, at about 40 centimetres at the best time, with a clear-sky operation, light-throwing the lower 20-30 centimetres of the penis over the ground, and, with the subsequent management of the branches, water control, potassium fatting of the phosphorus, together with forklift management, will allow the tomato tree to grow and grow。
