In november, pear trees experienced successive winters and snowy weather, which became colder and lighted the leaves and began to enter a “sleeping period”. The key to this phase of management is to help the pear trees survive the winter safely, while at the same time raising nutrients and laying the foundations for next year's growth, flowering and results
I. Tighten up the geisha
Autumn fertilizers are the most important step in a year's fertilization of pear trees and must be completed by early november to absorb nutrients in the root system before the land is frozen. The soil is still a little warm, and the roots of the pear trees are working, saving nutrients in fertilizers, both to improve the resilience to colds and to avoid the growth and lack of fruit due to lack of nutrition next spring。
Ii. Complete evaluation of organs
Winter is a time when pests and pests are “dive for winter”, and a thorough clearing of gardens can significantly reduce pests and pests next year and reduce the pressure on prevention and treatment。
1. Cleaning of the source of the disease: timely removal of the dead fruit from the garden, sick fruit, scratching with a razor of the traces, old pellets and cracks on the branches (where the eggs and bacteria are hidden), taking the cleaned out of the orchard and concentrating on burning or burial。
2. Garden-wide disinfection: when all pear leaves fall, a clear day is chosen and windless, a five-degree-be sulphate spray is sprayed throughout the orchard and the ground, effectively killing pathogens (e. G. Black star disease, decomposition) and eggs (e. G. Red spiders, pear lice) hidden on the branches and soil。
3. Cleaning of branches while trimmed: while triming branches, cutting out sick branches, dead branches, cross-cutting branches and excavating dead trees; after trimmed, cleaning leaves, residues and weeds that fall on the ground, burning them together or burying them in order to keep the orchards clean and dry。
Iii. Take measures to protect the pear tree from the cold
In november, the temperature changed significantly and the temperature was prone to cold tides. It had to be protected from cold at all levels from roots, trunks and branches to avoid freezing of pear trees。
1. Timely application of anti-frozen water: a perforation of orchards before severe cooling. Water fills the gaps in the soil, and when the weather cools, the surface is covered with thin ice, like a layer of “temperature protection” that covers the cold air and protects the roots from freezing。
2. Painting of the trunks: this is a key method of protecting the trees in the autumn and winter, which is cold, sun-burn and insect-proof. The formulations for the platinum are: 20 kg of raw lime, 2 kg of raw thiomer, 2 kg of salt, 1 kg of vegetable and animal oil and 60 kg of water. This is done by fully distilling the raw lime, by adding grease to the oil, then by placing water in a thin, suitable lime milk, and finally by mixing the original thiomer with salt water. When coated, emphasis is placed on the trunk and the root of the main branch, which are between 1 and 1. 5 metres above the ground, depending on the thickness of the tree bark, which is not visible in the background colour。
Combination of the trunk to protect the temperature: the trunk is entangled from the root to the main branch with plastic sheeting, straw, straw, etc., to form a layer of “temperature layer” to reduce the loss of the trunk heat, especially for small trees and pear trees。
4. Frozen anti-freeze medicines: one or two days before cooling, an anti-freezing fluid was sprayed on the branches in the form of a mixture of potassium phosphate, calcium phosphate, calcium aminoate, fluoride, thallethrin, sodium nitronol with red sugar. It improves the resistance of branch cells to freezing and reduces the frostbite injuries of branches。
5. Planting the roots of the trees: the root neck of the pear (where the roots and the trunks are connected) is the most susceptible to freezing, and before it gets cold, a pile of earth around the neck, 30 to 40 centimetres in diameter and 20 to 30 centimetres in height, can block the cold air and protect the neck and the main root。
Scientifically trim branches to make the tree more rational
The pear leaves can be trimmed in 15 days until next year's bud. Remember, "big trees cut early, weak trees cut late; if the temperature drops below minus 10°c, don't cut first, avoid freezing wounds, and wait until the weather warms up." the core of the cut is “control of heights, decoupling of branches, opening of branches, updating of old branches”, so that the trees are luminous and strong, with the specific cut adjusted to the type of orchard:
(b) deep orchards: mainly in the form of “circle-shaped” trees, cut by the method of “three-viewed”: one look at the top of the tree, keeping the tree height at 3 to 3. 5 metres, and cutting it at the top of the right branch, while cutting out the competitive branches growing around the tree top, standing branches so that they do not grow too strong and are weak; two look at the middle stem, cutting the lower branches below 60 centimetres of the main dry, the too tight branches, and the small branches of the space, with a roughness exceeding one third of the main stem, leaving short lines of 10 to 20 centimetres in length, which can facilitate the growth of new branches on the blade, so that they can be renewed later; and three look at the end of the branch, so that the resulting branches can be extended by single branches, with enough space to pull them down to make them slower, flower early, so that the small branches of the space can grow so that they can grow, and the results can be replaced by “twirestling, leaving small branches with short and long-term ones”。
Traditional orchard: based on the density of the tree, it is recommended that a “single one-heart” or “happy” tree be formed: a single-heart tree height of 3 to 3. 5 metres, with 3 to 4 main branches at the bottom, with a straight backbone of 3 to 4 branches in the middle, with a direct extension of the stem, with no more than 2 large branches, within 1. 2 metres of the length, and then slowly removed from the trunk and converted to a happy shape; a happy shape without a trunk, with a tree height of 3 metres below, with a tree height of 3 to 4 main branches (3 best), with an angle of 50 to 60 degrees in the main branch, with an angle of 60 to 70 degrees in the middle, with an angle of 50 to 60 degrees in the upper end, and a branch of the main branch with a direct result, with a good wind and light, easy to manage and high fruit quality。
V. Filled with frozen water to ensure final security for winter
Frozen water is the last critical watering of pear trees in a year. It is both “freezing water” and “drinking root water” that enhances anti-frozen resistance to drought. It also helps to slow the decomposition of base fats and gives pear trees more nutrition。
Timing of water: the soil is usually watered when “cooled at night, melted during the day” after late november after the snow. At this point, water is neither too wet for the soil too early, nor the oxygen-deficit roots for the soil, nor the freezing of the roots for the water too late。
2. Mastery of water-watering methods: in the form of heavy water-filling, it is essential that the soil be humid at depths not less than 60 cm. Sufficient moisture fills the soil gap, acts as a protection of temperature, protection and promotes the decomposition and absorption of glyphs and provides a basis for the growth of pear trees next spring。
In short, the management of pear trees in november is directly related to the safe passage of winter and next year's output, quality and key to linking this year to next year's harvest. It is important for the friends of the farmers to be careful and to follow the above approach in order to keep the orchard high, steady and produce good fruit。
