In the season, its flowers and its long history of cultivation have long been integrated into the poetry of human civilization. We need to talk and analyse from many angles about how the season is raised。

I. Basic knowledge of the monthly season
Origin and classification
The history of the season can be traced back to china thousands of years ago, followed by europe on the silk road. The modern monthly family is divided into:
The mixed tea season: flowers are elegant, single flowers bloom, fragrances are the backbone of flower shops。
The flower season: it's an amazing amount of flowers, and it's very resistant to disease, and it's a good place to build flowers。
This month's season: the branches are long and soft enough to climb arches, walls and create a romantic vertical landscape。
The shrub season: a strong and adaptable plant is the basis for greening the yard。
Mini-moon season: little tiny ling, the perfect choice for a balcony plant, the lovely flowers。
Growth properties
The season is warm, suny and well-ventilated. It takes at least six hours per day for direct light to keep the flowers alive. A little chilly and most varieties are resistant to temperatures of 15°c. The growth cycle consists of embryos, branches, current buds, flowers and hibernations, which can be repeated in many seasons under suitable conditions。

Cultivation in the month: laying the foundations for flowers
1. Selection of suitable varieties
Examples of common varieties include the classic “peace” yellow petals with red sides, symbolizing hope; the fragrance of red ecstasy and ecstasy; the ecstasy of an “emergic mountain” that resists ill flowers; and the impact of the “big march” that climbs。
Basis for selection: priority is given to local climate adaptation (cool/heat resistance), followed by clarity about the purpose of planting (flower viewing, climbing, cutting) and the size of the space, with attention to their resistance to disease and fragrance preferences。
Soil and location selection
Optimal soils: ph6. 0-7. 0. Magnificent soil needs to be mixed into decayed leaves, rough sand and improved organic fertilizers, while sandy soil needs to increase organic quality to protect water。
Location key: sunshine! Sunshine! Sunshine! Choose where the sun is, where the air flows, and avoid the low-lying waters and the darkness of the north side of the building. Good ventilation significantly reduces the incidence of disease。
Cultivation methods
Optimal time: hibernation takes place, the north is better after the spring thaw or before the fall frost, and the warm areas of the south are more suitable for autumn and winter。
Plantation steps:
Digging pits: the depth and width are greater than the root earthball, usually about 60 cm。
Improved subsoil: confusion of the pit bottoms with decomposed organic fertilizers (e. G., goat dung, cow dung) or slow decomposition of fat to base。
Treatment of seedlings: a little decomposition of the root system after the seedlings have been debatable; nudity seedlings require early impregnation of the root system。
Plantation: placing seedlings in pits to ensure that the dower (the root expansion) is slightly higher than the surface (the cold areas can be buried slightly deeper). Refill improved soil, light pressure。
Watering: watering the root water to ensure that the soil is in close contact with the root system。
Caution: avoiding root causes from direct exposure to high concentrations of fertilizers; ensure that backfills are protected against “suspension”; maintain soil wet but no water accumulation after planting. Newer mistakes often include overplanting, soil improvement, and lack of solid water。

Iii. Monthly day-to-day maintenance: fine management and productivity hana
1. Water-water management
The principle is “dry and wet” and soaked. Avoid frequent shallow watering leading to the rise of the roots。
Frequency and methodology: the spring and autumn growth season is seen to be about three to five days ' duration; high summer temperatures are required to be served early and late (especially potted plants); and winter hibernation is reduced. Wet leaves are avoided to the extent possible, with slow root or drip irrigation used to reduce leaf disease。
Drought preparedness: good drainage is key to flood prevention. Timely refilling of water during prolonged drought, especially during curry periods and high temperatures. Organic coverings such as tree bark and decayed leaves can effectively protect the larvae, cool, and weeds。
Fertilizer techniques
Phase fertilization:
Spring sprawl: high nitrogen fat or balanced fat for leaf growing。
Pregnancy buds to flowering period: increased phosphate fattening (e. G., potassium dihydrohydrophosphate, liquid fertilizers of flower type) is colourful。
After the flower has been trimmed, supplementing the balanced weight to restore the tree and boosting the next flower。
Autumn (september-october): increased phosphate fattening, cessation of nitrogen fertilizer, maturing of branches, increasing winter resistance。
Prior to winter hibernation: embedding a sufficient amount of decomposed organic fertilizer (e. G. Composting, bone powder) as base fertilizer。
Organic fertilizers vs. Organic fertilizers: organic fertilizers (candium, cake, manure) improve soil with long and mild fertility; chemical fertilizers are accurate. The two are best combined: organic fertilizers are used for base fertilizers, and quick-effect fertilizers or organic fluids can be pursued during the growing season. You're gonna have to work hard to avoid burning the roots。
3. Use of biological agents
Applications: geokine (composite oligochemicals), which has a powerful function of activating the soil's primary microbacterial population, has been very effective in agricultural degradation, adjusting the ecological balance of soil and water bodies, promoting plant growth, resisting connectivity barriers, restoring soil sheeting, restoring the structure and permeability of the soil mass, increasing soil drainage and humidity; it has also been very effective in increasing plant growth and nitrogen-fixing capacity, decomposition of organic matter, reduction of crop diseases, release of fixed phosphate and other nutrients, and restoration of plated soils。
Benefits: environmentally friendly (non-toxic, degradable), less resistant to drugs, safety of natural enemies, non-farming, consistent with green horticulture。
4. Cutting and topning
Motion and timing:
Winter shears (recutions): the last period of hibernation (before the early spring sprouts). The main cuttings are dead, sick, weak, cross branches, short and strong branches (usually three to five sprouts), which shape ideal strains and stimulate strong new branches to bloom。
Post-flower shearing (light cutting): timely cutting of flowers (with one to two small leaves) and conservation of nutrients for new branches。
Long-term cutting: ready cutting of ill and ill branches, blind branches (sprawn-free branches), overt branches and improved ventilation。
(c) top (crystal): cut off the young branches of the burgeoning branches for a long period of time. Purpose: to promote branching to make the strains more abundant; to delay the flowering period (for regulating the flowering period or small sapling). Note that sufficient time is available before the scheduled period。
Iv. Pest and pest control: priority for treatment
1. Prevention of common diseases
Black spots: there are purple chords on the leaves, the surroundings are yellow and the leaves fall seriously. Prevention and treatment: timely removal of ill leaves; enhanced ventilation; regular pre-season spraying of manganese zinc, peptol or biopharmaceuticals; selection of resistant varieties。
Powdery: leaves, buds, young branches covered with white powder. Prevention and control: avoidance of drought; spraying of lunason, benzodiazepine or small soda, sulphur preparations; trimmed branches。
Frost: there's a gray purple mold on the back of the leaves and yellow spots on the front of the leaves. High temperature, high humidity and hair. Prevention and control: improvement of ventilation; spraying of alkyl, frosting, etc。
Common pest control
Aphids: accumulation of apogee, gravitation, causing coal pollution. Prevention and control: early hand-stamping or strong currents of water; spraying of aphids, aphids or soap, bitter alkaline。
Red spider: high-temperature dry back salivation, small yellow spots for leaves lost green. Prevention and control: increase in humidity; water spraying on the back of the leaf; application of benzophthalmone, avil。
Bumblebees: the larvae's larvae wreathing. Prevention and control: timely cutting of aging twigs (down to no insect trails) for destruction; yellowboard booby traps during insects。
Leaf cutters: the blades are cut out of the full arc gap. Often, the harm is small and bright reflections are tolerated or suspended。
3. Preventive measures
Healthy cultivation: it is essential to prevent disease and insects! Select disease-resistant varieties, provide adequate light and ventilation, rationalize water fertilization to increase resistance to strains, and reduce the source of bacterial infestation in a timely manner。
Use of natural natural predators: useful insects such as the protection of aphids (eating aphids), grasshoppers and dictums (eating red spiders). Avoid the misuse of wide spectrum pesticides。

V. Special care: responding to the four seasons and space
1. Four-season conservation elements
Spring: episode of buds, guaranteed water fattening (high nitrogen/equilibrium), prevention of pre-cipice colds, with emphasis on the prevention of pre-epidemic insects (powder, aphids)。
Summer: flowering and hot seasons, timely refilling of water (morning and evening), shade-proof sunburning (especially pellets), strengthening of fragrances and post-stripping, with a focus on the prevention of red spiders, black spots and trams。
Autumn: another important flowering period and growing season to ensure water fattening (polyphosphate) continues to be spent and trim, and late autumn cuts are stopped in order to prevent new freezing and to apply base fat。
Winter: hibernation, winter cutting, garden cleaning, winter preparedness in the north (see below)。
2. Winter protection measures (cold areas)
The shrub season: after winter cutting, the soil is piled on the roots or covered with thick organic matter (composed, corrupted leaves, pins). The cold areas can be planted with untweeded and grass-covered plants。
This month's season: carefully untie the branches and bind them around the ground, covering the soil or organic matter. Or pack cold-proof material directly on the rack。
Bottle-plant season: move to the wind-to-light (e. G. South wall roots) or put in cold/low-temperature rooms (0-5°c) to control water loss of fertilizer。
3. Distinction between pellets and management of plantations
Plant specificity:
The soil is more demanding: it must be defusing and fertile and periodically replaced (about 1-2 years)。
Fertilizer management is more diligent: the wet and dry pelvis cycle is fast, and water is required early and late in the summer; more frequent fatting is required during the growing season。
The need for protection is even greater in the winter: the roots are prone to freezing and require effective temperature protection。
Selection of varieties: priority is given to compact stocks, relatively shallow flower seasons, mini-monthly seasons, etc。
Vi. Common problems and solutions
Possible causes of poor growth during the season: insufficient light, poor soil sheeting/drainage, poor water fertilization (over or under), severe pests, unreasonable trim, freezing during winter, etc。
Typical problem resolution:
Leaf is yellow: a check is made of whether the water is watery (old yellow) or dry (total yellow), and iron is missing (new yellow) to supplement the iron fat which is sequestered and which is less fat (total yellow)。
Blind branches do not bloom: ensure adequate light; rational application of fertilizers (phosphorous potassium before flowers); timely post-flower trim and new branches; and check if pests lead to weakness。
Small flowering/frowning: usually insufficient light or lack of phosphorus potassium fertilizer。
Sudden atrophy: check if it is dry, watery root or bee larvae。
Vii. Research and application of the month
The beauty of the season lies in its ever-changing bouquet, its almost all-encompassing chromatography (except for pure blue), and its fragrances, from elegance to thick intoxicated man. It is both the well-deserved focus of the courtyard and the soul of the arts。
Gardening skills:
Color crumbs: create different atmospheres using contrasts (e. G., red with yellow), adjacent colours (e. G., pink purple), monochromes (other than dark light powder)。
Levels and senses: foregrounds are covered by low grass (shebs, beauties) or leaf-watching plants (pads, root) and the medium view is the main part of the season, with the background being used for high-linear plants (mand grass, sunflower) or permanent green fences。
Style-making: the vase arch, the flower pole is romantic; the rule-based flower field is classical; the natural bushes are planted on the lawn or mixed in the ground (with rat's tails, lavenders, large flowers, swallows) are wild。
Aromatic corner: enriched fragrances (e. G. “sweet wagons”, nahoma) are planted near windows, paths and rest areas。
Concluding remarks
Monthly conservation, though it takes a lot of effort, has its rewards — the beauty and the fragrance of that time — enough to comfort all the hard work. The foundations of light, water fattening, trimping, disease prevention, and respect for its growth patterns, you will reap the beauty of the pouring city, which belongs to your own queen of flowers. There is no hesitation in choosing the species of the heart, and planting the first season with your hands, so that the dreams of the garden may bloom at the tip of the finger




